Getting into the crack is the crux. Climb the crack, then up grainy face past a bolt to the anchor.
This is the right slanting crack just right of Paul's Paradise North Face.
a few pieces to 2.5"
From: Oak Park, CA
Nov 26, 2012
pro to 0.75 (green Camalot)
|By JC w KC redux|
May 28, 2013
I totally disagree that getting into the crack is the crux - it's barely 5th class. There is a crux low in the crack and another up higher. The crack takes good small pro and you can sew it up for both cruxes. I placed a couple nuts, aliens and nothing bigger than a #1 camalot. I could have used one more small alien at the exit of the crack but I was probably overkilling the gear. The top is total choss but the moves are slabby and the bolt is right where you need it. There is a big scary chossy flake to the left of the anchor just waiting for someone to knock it off.