Hadrian's Wall Direct
||Ice, 6 pitches, 1000', Grade IV
|Consensus: ||WI4 [details]|
|Page Views: ||71|
|Submitted By: ||Nick Russell on Apr 9, 2013|
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A sustained ice climb, especially in the first two pitches. It is never really steep, but it's a long way before you get a rest! Above this, the climbing eases significantly until a steep sting in the tail just before the top.
The climb starts up an obvious ice smear down and to the left of Point Five gully.
P1. Set off up the ice smear. A single 60m pitch won't get you to above the steep section, but a few slight easings on the way up make good belay points. Belay off screws out of the firing line of the next pitch.
P2. Continue through the steep exit to a ramp below a chimney
P3. Climb the chimney (some big nuts and hexes on the right) to where it opens out into a wide gully
At this point, you can trend right (slightly harder) or continue up the gully to the left, to a junction with Observatory Ridge. Several easier pitches get you to a steeper (and somewhat surprising) exit onto the summit plateau.
Depending on how you pitch out the top section, there are normally about 7 pitches total. Above the chimney it feels like it should be over quickly but it just keeps going! An excellent climb, and well worth the effort.
The obvious ice smear to the left of Point 5 gully
Screws all the way up. Some fixed gear in the upper pitches, and a few nut and hex placements can be excavated, especially in the pitch 3 chimney.