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Ben Nevis
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Hadrian's Wall Direct 
Orion Direct 
Point Five Gully 
Tower Ridge 
Vanishing Gully 
Zero Gully 

Hadrian's Wall Direct 

WI4

   
Type:  Ice, 6 pitches, 1000', Grade IV
Consensus: WI4 [details]
FA: 
Season: Winter
Page Views: 48
Submitted By: Nick Russell on Apr 9, 2013

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Description 

A sustained ice climb, especially in the first two pitches. It is never really steep, but it's a long way before you get a rest! Above this, the climbing eases significantly until a steep sting in the tail just before the top.

The climb starts up an obvious ice smear down and to the left of Point Five gully.

P1. Set off up the ice smear. A single 60m pitch won't get you to above the steep section, but a few slight easings on the way up make good belay points. Belay off screws out of the firing line of the next pitch.

P2. Continue through the steep exit to a ramp below a chimney

P3. Climb the chimney (some big nuts and hexes on the right) to where it opens out into a wide gully

At this point, you can trend right (slightly harder) or continue up the gully to the left, to a junction with Observatory Ridge. Several easier pitches get you to a steeper (and somewhat surprising) exit onto the summit plateau.

Depending on how you pitch out the top section, there are normally about 7 pitches total. Above the chimney it feels like it should be over quickly but it just keeps going! An excellent climb, and well worth the effort.


Location 

The obvious ice smear to the left of Point 5 gully


Protection 

Screws all the way up. Some fixed gear in the upper pitches, and a few nut and hex placements can be excavated, especially in the pitch 3 chimney.



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