Brilliant climbing on impeccable rock. Definitely stands out for it's quality, variety, and difficulty. Unusual (for Suicide) face climbing that follows a flake system on pitch one, with a extremely hard crux sequence on pitch two.
Pitch 1: After the first bolt (quite high - 5.9) do a few hard (10d) moves to gain the base of the corner/flake system that arches up and right. Pass two more bolts in the corner. The second bolt protects moves (12a) that are the crux of the pitch before more good climbing leads to the bolt at the top of the arch. Clip this bolt and move left (11b) then up into the 10a corner. Belay at the bolts. Superb climbing/quality pitch.
Pitch 2: Clip a bolt and make moves (11c) up to and over a small roof. Clip another bolt and prepare for a powerful, steep, reachy, desperate crux sequence moving up and right to the good hold. Easy from the end of the crux. Both of the bolts on this pitch can be difficult to clip because they were placed on the aid FA. There may, or may not, be slings in place to facilitate free climbing clips. This pitch may be a little height dependent - the taller the better. Hard pitch with good climbing in a great location.
There is a two anchor to the left of the end of the second pitch. An 80' rappel reaches back to the belay at the end of pitch one.
About 40' right of Archangel, at the low point of the South Face proper.
Bolts and thin gear.
|By John Long|
Jul 20, 2011
I still think the first pitch (1st done free by Hensil and Powell) is one of the best couple face pitches at Suicide. Perfect rock and pretty continuous. The last pitch is a wicked hard boulder sequence off dimes that I couldn't do till I went to Roubidoux for a month or so and got my dimes dialed. Very fond memories. Must have done the first pitch three times before I got the 2nd all free no hangs or weighting the rope.
From: So Cal
Sep 11, 2011
rating: 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b PG13
To me, the second pitch is only slightly more difficult but an easier pitch to lead. Just an incredible line. I lead both pitches with no falls Saturday afternoon.