Type: Trad, 220 ft (67 m), 2 pitches
FA: Tobin Sorenson, et al. - 1970s FFA P1: Kevin Powell, Darrell Hensel - 1980 P2: John Long, Bob Gaines - 1984
Page Views: 5,662 total · 30/month
Shared By: Darrell Hensel on Jul 10, 2008 · Updates
Admins: C Miller, Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description Suggest change

Brilliant climbing on impeccable rock. Definitely stands out for it's quality, variety, and difficulty. Unusual (for Suicide) face climbing that follows a flake system on pitch one, with a hard crux sequence on pitch two.

Pitch 1: Choose the original start or one of the bolted variations (all with high first bolts) to gain the corner/flake system that arches up and right.  A bolt protects the crux moves (5.12) where the arch curves right, followed by good climbing to a final bolt at the top of the arch.  Clip this bolt and move left (5.11) then up into the 10a corner, ending at a bolted belay. Superb climbing/quality pitch.

Pitch 2: A committing move gets you to the first bolt, then make moves (5.11) up to and over a small roof. Clip another bolt and prepare for the crux sequence (5.12+?) moving up and right to the good hold. Easy from the end of the crux. Both of the bolts on this pitch can be difficult to clip because they were placed on the aid FA. There may, or may not, be slings in place to facilitate free climbing clips. This pitch may be a little height dependent - the taller the better. Hard pitch with good climbing in a great location.

There is a two bolt anchor on the left at the end of the second pitch. An 80' rappel reaches back to the belay at the end of pitch one.

Location Suggest change

About 40' right of Archangel, at the low point of the South Face proper.

Protection Suggest change

Bolts and thin gear.

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