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 ADVANCED
One-Eyed Cat Wall
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Beat the Devil T 
Classic Cowboy T 
Flying High as the Sky T 
Had a Lean on My Sole S 
Hole in the Ozone S 
Iceman Cometh S 
Mask of the Devil S 
One-Eyed Cat S 
Voodoo Glow Skulls S 

Had a Lean on My Sole 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 30'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: (TR) Fred Maki & Chris Miller, 2005, FL: Brad Singer and Pete Paredes, May 2007
Page Views: 484
Submitted By: Bill Olszewski on Sep 17, 2008

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (6)
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Mike Williams on the finishing moves of Had a Lean...

Description 

This ones a great route for the moderate leader! Start just below the top of a long, slanting rock. Id say the crux is the first move. Head straight up through the jug-fest on vertical rock to a large belay ledge. A fun route that requires some careful shifts in balance and a few mini-stems. Rappel to descend.

Location 

This is the third bolt line, counting from the climber's left.

Protection 

4 bolts, ring anchors


Photos of Had a Lean on My Sole Slideshow Add Photo
Photo/topo for the One-Eyed Cat Wall (East Face), ...
BETA PHOTO: Photo/topo for the One-Eyed Cat Wall (East Face), ...
bill, belayed by his better half
bill, belayed by his better half

Comments on Had a Lean on My Sole Add Comment
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By C Miller
Administrator
Jun 29, 2009
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

Somewhat awkward feeling climbing on this with the best moves at the top. The 2nd bolt is positioned such that if you fall clipping you'll hit the rock at the base.
By Nelson Day
From: Joshua Tree, CA
Aug 29, 2011
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a

I can't agree with the 5.8 rating on this climb. There wasn't a 5.8 climb on this wall as far as I recollect, and we did everything that was bolted. I'm not sure if we were just off route, or maybe the FA climbers were just really really stout.. If you are a 5.8 leader, be careful when considering this climb. I would put it at 5.9+ due to the reachy/crimpy/balancy moves. When compared with other 5.8's in the area, this is definitely a lot harder.