Had a Lean on My Sole 5.8
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| Type: | Sport, 1 pitch, 30 feet |
| Consensus: | 5.8+ [details] |
| FA: | (TR) Fred Maki & Chris Miller, 2005, FL: Brad Singer and Pete Paredes, May 2007 |
| Submitted By: | Bill Olszewski on Sep 17, 2008 |
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Mike Williams on the finishing moves of Had a Lean...
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Description This one’s a great route for the moderate leader! Start just below the top of a long, slanting rock. I’d say the crux is the first move. Head straight up through the jug-fest on vertical rock to a large belay ledge. A fun route that requires some careful shifts in balance and a few mini-stems. Rappel to descend.
Location This is the third bolt line, counting from the climber's left.
Protection 4 bolts, ring anchors
BETA PHOTO: Photo/topo for the One-Eyed Cat Wall (East Face), ...
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bill, belayed by his better half
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| Comments on Had a Lean on My Sole |
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By C Miller
Administrator
Jun 29, 2009
rating: 5.8
| Somewhat awkward feeling climbing on this with the best moves at the top. The 2nd bolt is positioned such that if you fall clipping you'll hit the rock at the base. |
By Nelson Day
From: Victorville, CA
Aug 29, 2011
rating: 5.9+
| I can't agree with the 5.8 rating on this climb. There wasn't a 5.8 climb on this wall as far as I recollect, and we did everything that was bolted. I'm not sure if we were just off route, or maybe the FA climbers were just really really stout.. If you are a 5.8 leader, be careful when considering this climb. I would put it at 5.9+ due to the reachy/crimpy/balancy moves. When compared with other 5.8's in the area, this is definitely a lot harder. |
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