|Lower Buckhorn Wash
Two alternatives for the start. Option 1 is left of the main tower. You do a few 5.9 OW moves and scurry up a gully with a few 5th class moves until you're in the chimney between the main wall and the tower. For Pitch 2 you sport climb the bolts on the tower, while stemming between the two (a fun pitch...about 5.9). The last pitch is pretty much a bolt ladder that you aid. Make sure to bring some offset nuts though and a stiffy. Without them, you won't be able to do the ladder. I think a bat hook was also helpful.
Option 2 is slightly right of the main tower up a burly 5.11 offwidth pitch. There are anchors obvious about 80 feet up or you can keep going and run out a 70 m rope to the bolted chimney mentioned above.
To descend, do a single roper to the belay at the top of pitch two, then a double rope to the ground.
Near the entrance to Pine Canyon and about 1/4 mile down canyon (toward the river) from Private Pizza Wall. Approach from up canyon of the Tower and traverse up and right through the talus to the base of the Tower.
OW gear, offset nuts, aiders, bat hook, quickdraws, light free rack
BETA PHOTO: the tower view from the Pine Creek turn off.
The cool bolted stemming pitch between the main wa...
Sept. 27,2009. Notice the little figure on the ver...
|By Darren Knezek|
Nov 1, 2007
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a C2
The first ascent of this tower was done by Jason Stevens and the tower was called Haagen-Schlong. It was done in the early 1990's. A later party (posting on Rockclimbing.com in 1995) added a different first pitch to the right and called the tower, Cleopatra. This later party climbed his last two pitches to get to the top of the tower.
Jason rated the first pitch to the left of the main tower, 5.5. Then the bolted chimney 5.9 and the final pitch was rated 5.6 A2. You used a nut to get to the first bolt and then a bathook in between the next bolt. After bolt #2 you used two bathooks in row for the next couple of bolts. Next, a knifeblade for the thin crack and more bathooks between the next bolts and finally a crack to the top utilizing cams from 1.5" to 4.5". I forgot to bring cams for the top section and free climbed it at .10, on some sandy, somewhat scary rock. (I also took a 30-footer when some holds broke near the top.)
Using a stiffy or cheater stick would bring the C2 last pitch to super easy C1. Last time I talked to Jason he wished he hadn't used bathooks in the sandstone since they don't seem to last very long.
I thought that the bathooks were very exciting to use, otherwise.
|By John J. Glime|
From: Salt Lake City, UT
Nov 1, 2007
Thanks crackroach, awesome.
The name haagen schlong gets my vote.
|By Darren Knezek|
Nov 2, 2007
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a C2
When I repeated Jason's route I thought that the bathooks were quite exciting since the sandstone is soft you never knew if that Double Whopper with cheese you ate the day before would make you just heavy enough to pop the hook and send you flying.
I talked with Jason a few days after doing the climb and he said that the bathooks were definitely not sustainable for multiple ascents and that they should probably be deepened and a bolt added. He's on vacation at the moment and I'll call him when he gets back to see if and how he would like this last pitch to be reengineered.
For some reason I really liked the 2nd pitch chimney, it was quite fun.
He put the climb up when he was first getting into aid and wanted to try out some of the aid techniques you always read about in the guides. Calder Stratford did the same thing in Zion awhile ago when he first put up climbs there.
The bad thing about bathooks in sandstone is the hook part gets closer and closer to the edge of the hole until it finally blows on someone and then a new hole is drilled. Not the best thing for the rock looking towards the future.
|By Jason Stevens|
From: Ephraim, UT
Apr 27, 2008
Glad everyone liked the route. We had fun doing it...it was a great stepping stone for us (Jared Nielson and I) and a darn fun route in it's own right.
The second pitch is a manifestation of our inexperience at the time. In hindsight the bat hooks were a bad idea. I'm all for re-engineering the second pitch. I'll put it on my list of things to do this spring...patch the holes and make the route more sustainable. I'm not sure it'll ever be free climbable. If I remember correctly, it was a blank face for about 30 feet. It's been well over 10 years, though, and climbers are doing amazing things these days.
Either way, I agree with TP. The proximity to the road, the cool chimney and tower finish should draw a lot of climbers of all levels and abilities. It should be a popular climb and would be if the last pitch were re-engineered a bit. Call it "dumbed down" if you want - whatever we call it there will always be aid on the last pitch. It might as well be on a bolt and not a silly-ass bat hook.
Glad you liked it!
PS: its Haagenschlong, not Cleopatra.
Aug 13, 2008
I thought I was the only person that climbed that thing. I still never trust the bat hook placements, so bringing a cheater stick and one big cam 5 and one small cam 00 will get you to the top.
Jason told me about it back when I was a punk kid getting into trouble in central UT.
|By Ben Folsom|
Nov 13, 2008
This tower was called "Cleopatra" long before the first ascent (mostly due to some lysergic acid episodes/experiences that happened in that area), but since Jason Stevens was the person to climb it first, I believe he has the right to name the tower as he pleases... Haagenschlong it is...
|By Luke Douglas|
Mar 21, 2009
Does anyone know if the bat hook moves stand or if bolts have replaced those on the last pitch?
Jul 24, 2012
We brought a stick clip. As far as I could tell, the hole was still blown out and I couldn't see another way around. Most of the other holes looked "useable" but I preferred to stick with the stick clip. But if you want to aid it, it is still bolt, bat hook, bolt, bat hook...or something like that. Most of the bolts are too far apart to reach bolt to bolt.
|By Paul S|
From: Fruita, CO
Apr 1, 2013
It's been a while since I climbed this, but looking at it from the summit of Flapjack this past weekend, I'm pretty sure bolts have been added, eliminating the need for hooking. I'm not positive on this!! But if I were to climb it again, I wouldn't bring my hooks. Somebody correct me if I'm wrong please!
Sep 4, 2013
The bolts have been added. You don't need any hooks, but you do need 3 or 4 pieces of gear. I can't remember what I was told, but I think it was a brass offset to get to the first bolt in the aid ladder and then, up at the top, it was 2 - 3 medium sized pieces (somewhere between a 1 and 3.5...I think).