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H Section: Jiangjun Feng (“The General’s Peak”)

H Section: Jiangjun Feng (“The General’s Peak”)  


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Submitted By: RyderS on Apr 25, 2013
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A shot of H-section (General's Peak) crag as seen ...

Description 


The General’s Peak is a section of cliff featuring a prominent buttress that looms over the village of Nanping. It sticks pretty far out from the cliff, so it is hard to miss if you are looking north from the center of the village. As a reference point, it is located east from Friendship Mountain/Rollkai Spire. This crag also features another prominent multipitch climb, though it seems to top out just short of the top of the cliff.





o H1: 将军缝 (Jiangjun Feng) “The General’s Peak”
• A1, 75 meters, 4 pitches (?, 24m; ?, 24m; ?, 13m; A1, 14m)
• Trad/Aid
• Gear anchors, FA: 王二,装缝,2006/8
• I couldn’t find much more information on this route. The guidebook has no ratings for the first 3 pitches, while the fourth only has an A1 rating. Looks like someone might have to climb it to find out.

o H2: 传声筒 (Chuangshengtong) “Megaphone”
• 5.9, 40 meters, 1 pitch
• Trad
• Tree anchor, FFA: 原上草,2008/9

o H3: 喜蛛 (Xizhu) “Happy Spider”
• 5.10, 13 meters
• Sport (5 bolts + anchor)
• FA: 装缝,2006/8
• Equipped by: 王二,装缝,2006/8

o H4: 8.0
• Project, 17 meters
• Sport (5 bolts + anchor)
• Equipped by: 2006/8

o H5:双人床 (Shuangrenchuang) “Double Bed”
• 5.10c, 15 meters
• Sport (5 bolts + anchor)
• FA: 王二,装缝,2006/8
• Equipped by: 装缝,2006/8

o H6: [N/A]

o H7: [No Name]
• Project, 18 meters
• Sport (7 bolts + anchor)
• Equipped by: 王二,装缝, 2008/9

Getting There 

From Nanping village, Jiangjun Feng is the section of cliff that looms closest to the village itself. For reference, look for the broad, rectangular buttress that juts out prominently from this section of the cliff. Approach trails are often ill-defined, so ask some locals if there are access trails (路径) in the area. More often than not, you have to intuit your way there, taking farming paths off the side of the road and potentially doing a little bushwhacking towards the base of the wall.

Climbing Season



Weather station 21.7 miles from here


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