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 ADVANCED
Black Widow Slab
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Bands of Gold S 
Black Widow Recess T 
Caught in the Web S 
Center T 
Consilience S 
Dracula S 
F**k You S 
Far Right, The T 
Fire Down Below, The T 
Gyromancy S 
Kate Moss S 
Mordred S 
Pipe Dreams S 
Resonator S 
Right Side T 
Right Side? aka Bong Session T 
SMERSH T 
Smoke Down S 
Specter T 
Wired T 

Gyromancy 

YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 60'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c [details]
FA: Vaino Kodas and Bob D'Antonio
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 1,475
Submitted By: Ron Olsen on Aug 28, 2003

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (56)
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Getting ready for the Arete.
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Description 

This route start 15 feet right of "Consilience" and climbs an obvious blunt-arete to a two bolt anchor. The route climbs a lot better than it looks from the ground with a couple of hard moves on the arete. Cool moves up the arete to the crux near the fourth bolt. Reach a good two-finger pocket and one last hard move gets you to the anchor. Good route from the hard-working Mr. Kodas.


Protection 

Six clips will get you to a two-bolt andchor



Photos of Gyromancy Slideshow Add Photo
Consilience.
BETA PHOTO: Consilience.
Mike Amato high-stepping onto the arete at the third bolt.
Mike Amato high-stepping onto the arete at the thi...
Marga Powell at the crux between the third and fourth bolts.  The third bolt is by her right leg; the fourth bolt is visible just above her right arm. Taller climbers will be able to clip the fourth bolt before this move; shorter climbers may find that the clip is just out of reach from the last good stance.
Marga Powell at the crux between the third and fou...
Glen in proper form.
Glen in proper form.
Comments on Gyromancy Add Comment
Show which comments
By Ray Snead
Sep 1, 2003

Very good, with several baffling cruxes. Three people did the hard bit at the fourth bolt three different ways, but all were fully engaged higher and wondering what Bob would consider to be a "bad" two finger pocket.

This isn't one of Vaino's typcial Mr. Science names... were you going around in circles looking for Divination?

By Ron Olsen
From: Boulder, CO
Jul 17, 2004
rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c

An excellent pitch. Fun moves, clean rock. Sustained, thoughtful climbing from the fourth bolt to the top. The two-finger pocket is really good!Would be a three-star route if it were twice as long.

By Anonymous Coward
Sep 23, 2005

Young Doug...I led this route, and my partner Kevin led its neighbor to the left. Both of us agree that this route was a full number-grade easier. We also both agree that this route was not as hard as Super Slab. Mmmm.

By crankenstein
Sep 28, 2008

Along with Consilience and Kate Moss this climb rounds out a great trio of routes here. One can also rap from the top of Consilience to the anchors on Gyromancy and turn the 70 meter rap into 2 35 meter raps.

By slim
Administrator
Sep 19, 2012
rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c

Decent climbing, but I spent more time trying to figure out how to clip the 5th bolt from a decent stance than climbing the rest of the route. Pay attention well in advance, or you can get a little bit hung out to dry (like me).