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The Dead Snag
Routes Sorted
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Dead Snag Direttissima 
Die Another Day 
East Dihedrals 
Gypsy Girl 
Jig's Up 
North Dihedrals 
North Ridge 
Steorts' Ridge 

Gypsy Girl 

YDS: 5.5 French: 4b Ewbanks: 13 UIAA: IV+ British: MS 4a

Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 60'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.5 French: 4b Ewbanks: 13 UIAA: IV+ British: MS 4a [details]
FA: Unknown
Page Views: 858
Submitted By: Nathan Fisher on Jul 31, 2004
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Preston in sandals.


About 10 minutes up the gully from Steort's is a short bolted route that isn't a total waste of bolts. Definitely an acceptable climb for the young 'uns. Also, it is harder for the kids due to reaches.


5 draws for the climb, and there is a chain around a tree (not sure if I like that) for the anchor. Maybe bring slings for an anchor as well 1 chain does not an anchor make.

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By Eric Jacobsen
Aug 3, 2004

Way to go Preston!

By Nathan Fisher
Jul 22, 2005

Gear Alert

The bolts are all gone from this route. I guess thievery is still alive.

By Ryan Brough
From: Arvada, Colorado
Aug 5, 2006
rating: 5.5 4b 13 IV+ MS 4a

I believe that this is the single rappel alternative for the typical Dead Snag descent. Three rappels take up valuable climbing time. It only takes an extra two minutes to downclimb a ramp to get to the rappel tree with the chain wrapped around it. This may explain why the bolts got chopped.

By Brian in SLC
May 8, 2008

Maybe the reason the bolts got yanked is that for years, folks have used this as a down climb and an up climb with no bolts. I wonder who placed them and when? I hadn't seen them, but, I usually down climb off to the climber's left just below the tree, rather than straight down (although I've done it both ways).