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Gym Jones Approved 

YDS: 5.11b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E3 5c

   
Type:  Sport, 72'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E3 5c [details]
FA: Barry Brolley, Craig Lubben, Mark Ryan, Jeff Colombo
Page Views: 467
Submitted By: Jason Halladay on Oct 19, 2010

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Copping the sit-down rest on the route. October 20...

Description 

A fun, pumpy outing with a sit down rest about 1/2 way up to keep the pump factor low.

Boulder up to a good ledge about six feet up to establish yourself under a huge roof. Lean out, grab the big, chalked jug at the lip and go for it. Swing up and over on good holds making fun moves to the first bolt. This move is committing and high enough that you should definitely stick-clip the first bolt before starting.
Above the big roof, follow big holds up to another smaller ledge where you can squeak out a sit-down rest.
Rest up and then gun it up ever steepening terrain to high crux and the anchor.

Location 

Left and around the corner from Captain Blonde Sinks The Ship. The is the right-most bolted line in the small amphitheater. The huge roof down low with an orange patch of rock above help for identification.

Protection 

8 bolts to a chain anchors. The first bolt is super high to avoid rope drag. A stick clip is highly recommended.


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