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Gym closures for comps
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By Skinny DeVille
From Dirty South
Jan 27, 2011
Hey, so I was just wondering if anything has been done at this place to rectify or what the prevalent attitude at Rocksport has been after this incident has been?


Also, SKI, what have your interactions been like with the involved parties after your private message, as you stated you would be taking the e-mail in there, and they said they didn't want people who complained....something's gotta give!

Just curious.

FLAG
By Kid Icarus
Jan 28, 2011
Self Portrait of the Artist as a Young Man
I suspect things are approaching it is what it is status.

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By mission
Jan 28, 2011
shortguy wrote:
...RS uses no extraneous holds on routes, thus there are no extra hands or feet to find an alternative path through cruxes for people of different body types. Getting some "extra" hands and feet up on a route also brings some decision making skills into the routes, a skill not well addressed by RS routes.


One of my favorite things things about gyms is that you don't have to deal with route-finding, which let's be honest, normally means figuring which heavily chalked holds are actually okay rather than being incorrect "phantom holds". (What is fun about route-finding? I would further argue that extra holds would impair one's ability to route-find outside, as a well-set gym route should teach good technique, which will lead to somewhere knowing where to look for the route on real rocks.)

I don't live in Reno, so I don't care, but I don't think that the solution for reachy cruxes is for setters to just throw a whole bunch of confusing junk up.

FLAG
By lemur
Feb 10, 2011
My list of items I would like to see changed at RockSport. Is anybody listening?

1) A more professional flooring surface.
I trip on it at least once each time I'm there. It's nasty mangy ghetto carpet. I've even seen a dog shit on it. Of course, I never saw the dog in RS again, but why was it even there in the first place?

2) Route setting that involves trickier climbing than a large reach. Use your imagination.

Also, I hate it when the lead wall is filled with 5.12 and 5.11 routes and a token 5.9. Myself, and those I've talked to, want to see more routes in the 5.10a to 5.10c realm. Besides, why even put up a random 5.12 lead that only two people can climb? What happened to "the greatest good for the greatest number of people"?

Also, more routes need to be put up at each rope. There are currently three ropes that noone ever climbs on because they only host hard 5.11 problems. And don't tell me that I need to become a better climber because that's just dodging the issue.

3) Get rid of all that damn chalk!
It's everywhere. When I'm done with a session my clothes are covered in chalk! Most other gyms I've been to have a strict "no loose chalk" policy.

4) Move to a bigger building.
I don't care that the gym is a so-called "close knit climbing community." Not being able to climb on a TR because they're all filled with twenty 6-10 year olds does not make me feel particularly close knit to anyone. Also, the Incline gym is nice, but again, too fuckin small. What's with Tahoe-Reno people and the small gym mentality? When I'm trying to get in a burn, I don't want to stand in line for a TR.

I understand that compared to other gyms, RS is pretty inexpensive, but I would rather pay some extra money each month and climb in a more respectable gym.


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By Will S
From Joshua Tree
Feb 10, 2011
Climb harder than those sweaty 6-10 yr olds you're moaning about (who routinely hike 5.11 in my gym) and you won't have that problem.

A different perspective: A 5.10 guy can workout on 11s
and 12s, even if they hang all over it and can't do all the moves, whereas a 5.12 guy shows up and the entire gym is 5.10s...he might as well have stayed home, the training effect is about the same as rubbing one out or watching sportcenter...both of which would have been time better spent.

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By Jack Russell
Feb 16, 2011
Hmm, why is it that at most gyms everyone is on the 5.9 to 5.11 routes and almost nobody climbs the hard 5.11's and 5.12's? I like what lemur says about the greatest good for the greatest number of people. Isn't that what democracy is all about anyway? Besides, I don't like paying $80 a month to stand in line either (I'll go to Disneyland if I want that experience). One good reason for large gyms, but then I steer clear of those places lest I get infected with the plastic fungus.

I agree with Julius, pretty unprofessional stuff. For all it's faults makes me glad I live in a big city in So Cal with several different gyms to choose from. If this happened at a gym down here, most of the customers would bail to a competitor. I guess when you have three gyms in town it makes you focus more on the customer than your own self-serving needs.

Yet, to be fair, it is nice to see something done for the kids. For me, it all comes back to what my mother would tell me: "It's not what you say, but how you say it."

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By Kid Icarus
Feb 16, 2011
Self Portrait of the Artist as a Young Man
lemur wrote:
I understand that compared to other gyms, RS is pretty inexpensive, but I would rather pay some extra money each month and climb in a more respectable gym.


It's not necessarily that inexpensive. I've paid less for better gyms. I've also paid a bit more for better gyms.

My most recent gym before High Alt was $40 a month vs. the $45 they are charging at RS. The route setting was better/faster, comps far less intrusive, and there was much more and more varied climbing area. The climbing community there was also close-knit. The big difference was that there was competition in town that forced management to compete and not pawn its shortcomings as being those of its customers.

Pipeworks in Sacramento offers MUCH more as a facility for $64 a month.

I guess compared to High Alt's $85 per month it's much less expensive, but what do you expect from a boutique gym in Incline?

The sad thing is RS has taken a combative stance with customers rather than acknowledging the customer feedback and saying what they can or will do to improve the situation. Saying the customer is always dick as they have earlier in this conversation does not improve matters.

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By Helldorado
From Boulder, CO
Feb 21, 2011
Do some real climbing and stop bitching.

FLAG
 
By Kid Icarus
Feb 23, 2011
Self Portrait of the Artist as a Young Man
Helldorado wrote:
Do some real climbing and stop bitching.


Why? Bitching works. Reports are that the level 2 routesetter has left the building.

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By DogBonez
From Reno
Feb 24, 2011
Helldorado wrote:
Do some real climbing and stop bitching.


Seriously!!

Kid, with all the time you have to reply to a month old thread to keep your own gossip alive, when do you have time to train?

Helldorado wrote:
Do some real climbing and stop bitching.


Strap on a pair and go climb a rock!

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By slk
From Reno, NV
May 9, 2011
me
I'd be happy if they would just pro-rate my monthly payments during comp months. I pay almost the same amount as I paid in SF for an excellent gym with facilities, but can't go 4 to 8 days a month depending on comps.

The new route setting is dope though...

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By Andre H.
From An uplifted state
Nov 8, 2012
How long should it take for a small gym to take down its routes, set for a comp, and then have new routes (not just boulder problems) up?

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By Jake Jones
From Richmond, VA
Nov 8, 2012
Me and the offspring walking back to the car after...
I'm pretty lucky in that the gym I go to is a quality place to begin with and has fairly tall walls, and route setters that give a shit. When they have comps, they work all-nighters setting so as not to disturb the regularly paying customers and members. There is also a pretty sizeable square footage of wall space, so other routes are still open. Comp routes are marked off limits, but they're only up the day before a comp.

When they host bouldering comps, same thing. The cave is closed for maybe a day or two, but they do their best to set during closed hours and they keep as much open for as long as they can.

It's shitty that some of you don't have gyms that utilize practices that cater to the people that actually keep the place open and funnel the revenue in. But hey, if you're in CO, there has to be somewhere to climb, right?

Maybe that's part of why they operate this way. I'm on the flat ass east coast of VA where there's virtually nothing for three hours at least in any direction. Seems like the guys that run the gym here take that into account as well. While a few days or even a week isn't that big of a deal, when you want to train and you're paying for it, I get the gripe and I agree that it's a bummer.

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By Ian Stewart
Nov 8, 2012
Huh, this is quite the old thread brought back to life. Though I hadn't seen it before and enjoyed reading through it. I can say that RockSport deserves every bit of negative attention they're getting here. Not necessarily because of the closures, but because of their response. I haven't worked at a gym before but I have worked in retail, and in this case they've failed miserably with their customer service. As this 18-month thread revival proves, too, saying anything online that you'll regret, EVER, is a bad idea...

I was quite surprised that nobody bashed this guy, however:

mission wrote:
One of my favorite things things about gyms is that you don't have to deal with route-finding, which let's be honest, normally means figuring which heavily chalked holds are actually okay rather than being incorrect "phantom holds". (What is fun about route-finding? I would further argue that extra holds would impair one's ability to route-find outside, as a well-set gym route should teach good technique, which will lead to somewhere knowing where to look for the route on real rocks.)


Seriously? To me, climbing in a gym is like being handed a coloring book and being told to color inside the lines. Sure, it can be fun and good fitness training, but it can get boring pretty easily. Climbing outside, on the other hand, is like being handed a blank piece of paper and a pack of crayons: everybody will do something different.

There's no such thing as a "phantom" hold. If there's a lot of chalk on something, that's a good indication that it works for a LOT of people. If it doesn't work for you, that's a prime example of how different people approach problems differently.

Also, just because you have good technique doesn't mean that there's magically going to be a hold where you "think" it should be...

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By slk
From Reno, NV
Nov 8, 2012
me
Andre H. wrote:
How long should it take for a small gym to take down its routes, set for a comp, and then have new routes (not just boulder problems) up?



Not as long as it takes rocksport...

Mission Cliffs would reset an area the size of rocksport in a day when they were putting up new routes.

It also sucks when they take down all the routes for a boulder comp, then you get two days of nothing but boulder problems.

FLAG


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