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Gym closures for comps

Original Post
Colonel Mustard · · Sacramento, CA · Joined Sep 2005 · Points: 1,241

We head to the gym last night to get a burn in only to notice a lot of folks are streaming out. Inside, the desk guy is apologetic but tells us they're closing early tonight and will be closed the next three days setting up for the youth comp:

Reno RockSport will be closed Wed-Sat, 1/12-1/15, to set up for Regionals
:: ABS Season 12 Youth Regionals Competition is on Saturday, January 15, 2011. We will open the gym to the public on Sunday, January 16th.

So, during the Winter season when outdoor climbing is limited, we get shut down early on Tuesday 1/11, and, really, the paying public won't be able to climb till Sunday the 16th. Four solid days in addition to the early closure for setup/competition. Is this common to other gyms any of you go to? I've been a member of three other gyms over the years and this is unheard of to me: they worked at night, did partial closures, and just worked a lot faster to get the job done without inconveniencing paying members.

Scott McMahon · · Boulder, CO · Joined Feb 2006 · Points: 1,425

Being from Boulder...yes. Or section of the gym are ripped down to set up the routes.

I guess that's the price we pay really...I'm sure in some strange way these comps help us as they provide industry interest.

Like my school parking pass...I paid for it, but when there is a sporting event it becomes null and void. But the sports helps the Univserity. oh well...

Hank Caylor · · Livin' in the Junk! · Joined Dec 2003 · Points: 643

On the bright side, they usually have a slew of fresh routes when they re-open.

Phil Lauffen · · Innsbruck, AT · Joined Jun 2008 · Points: 3,098

You're one of those boulder gym snobs, aren't you....

Hank Caylor · · Livin' in the Junk! · Joined Dec 2003 · Points: 643
Phil Lauffen wrote:You're one of those boulder gym snobs, aren't you....
Nothing snobby about the BRC being AWESOME! But yeah, me, way snobby.
George Heib · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Sep 2010 · Points: 30

We usually close of the comp area and keep the rest of the gym open to the public about a week prior to the comp. Reckon we can get away with that though as there are 60 TR stations outside of the bouldering area :D I wouldn't ever imagine closing down the entire gym though that is pretty rare and don't really see this happening in our area.

England · · Colorado Springs · Joined Aug 2008 · Points: 270
Phil Lauffen wrote:You're one of those boulder gym snobs, aren't you....
I would put money down that you are one also. Let me guess, "The Spot".
Phil Lauffen · · Innsbruck, AT · Joined Jun 2008 · Points: 3,098
England wrote: I would put money down that you are one also. Let me guess, "The Spot".
Hell NO!!! Bouldering is lam-o! They don't even let me top out on some of their walls... Movement all the way.
mark felber · · Wheat Ridge, CO · Joined Jul 2005 · Points: 41

Closing a section of the gym for a comp is fine, if there's enough room for people to do some climbing. Closing the entire gym is lame.

M Lindfors · · Highlands Ranch · Joined Apr 2006 · Points: 35

Sounds like you need a woody!

P.S. I took my kids to Movement once and they charged me $10 to belay them! I don't climb and I have never been back there. The staff was not very nice either.

Chris Plesko · · Westminster, CO · Joined Oct 2007 · Points: 485

If the BRC is closed you can usually go to the spot free for members. Same with the SPOT comps.

The amount of time closed the original poster mentioned would be a bummer but one night or a night and a day doesn't bother me as I have other places to climb and other gyms to go to. Then again we are spoiled in Boulder/Denver area with at least 10 gyms I'm sure.

Chris Plesko · · Westminster, CO · Joined Oct 2007 · Points: 485
M Lindfors wrote:Sounds like you need a woody! P.S. I took my kids to Movement once and they charged me $10 to belay them! I don't climb and I have never been back there. The staff was not very nice either.
BRC never charges me for my belay bitches either...haha.
bergbryce · · California · Joined Aug 2009 · Points: 145

thumbs down.
I've been turned back probably 4 times the past few years because of some comp related crap upon showing up at the gym.
Closed for 3 or 4 days? That really sucks, I feel ya.

Sam Stephens · · PORTLAND, OR · Joined Jan 2010 · Points: 1,090

Wow, quit your whining. Not everything revolves around you... The gym decides to host a comp and they have to shut down to route set and you're crying? Deal with it and find something to do for a few days...

Greg Carlisle · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Sep 2010 · Points: 5

Sounds like its time to get outside...the weather this weekend in the Reno area looks real nice. any of the crags or fields in the desert or the edge of the Sierra should be Awesome....good luck with the gym closure....could always go snowboarding.

Blue Eisele · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Dec 2007 · Points: 0
Hep · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jan 2011 · Points: 5

Hello there! I'm that gym employee that told you we were closed. Here's the thing about competitions: 1) They're a ton of work and we don't get to compete in them because we are setting/working them. 2) We LOSE money on competitions because of the T-Shirts/Fliers/Man Hours/Food/Beer that we provide. Most of the money goes directly to USA Climbing and the rest goes towards our kids team so they can travel to other competitions including nationals.

The reason we host competitions is because they're fun and they're for the kids. The last competition was the Regional Championship which is the last stop before nationals where the best youth climbers in the country compete. We need those close dates because we need to make sure we can fine-tune some of the best problems we can. I personally slept on a crash pad for three hours the night before the comp. I'm sorry you found out we were closed when you arrived at the gym, we try to post fliers and update web pages so that doesn't happen. We only host 2-3 competitions a year and the last thing we like to hear after all of our efforts to do something really great is here people bash us because we interrupted their climbing schedule, as if you have as much right to climb in our gym as you would outside. We're very proud of our gym and the work we've put into it. I'm sorry we don't have the money to support 60 TRs and have partial closures. We like our gym because it is small and a tightly knit community of climbers, and we really don't like people bashing us on the internet instead of coming to us directly (we can find you!).

SKI Ski · · Portlandia, OR · Joined May 2010 · Points: 15

I'm not so much bummed about Rocksport being closed for several days as I am to the fact that it takes seriously FOREVER to put up new routes afterwards there.

We love Rocksport to death but it's frusturating as hell to look forward to the same 4-5 routes for a number of weeks after a comp (especially bouldering) has taken place.

We know that you guys are short-handed yadayada and it takes time to build quality routes but your boss has to dedicate more resources into getting what little space you guys have plastered with new routes ASAP.

We (the people paying your wage) depend on it!!!

bearbreeder · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Mar 2009 · Points: 3,065
Paul Heppner wrote:. I'm sorry we don't have the money to support 60 TRs and have partial closures. We like our gym because it is small and a tightly knit community of climbers, and we really don't like people bashing us on the internet instead of coming to us directly (we can find you!).
i didnt think the OP was so much as bashing as asking about gym closures ...

its a valid question ...

if i were the gym and someone complained ... then id just credit their membership with the closed days ...

but then again im not a gym ;)
Colonel Mustard · · Sacramento, CA · Joined Sep 2005 · Points: 1,241
Paul Heppner wrote:I'm sorry you found out we were closed when you arrived at the gym, we try to post fliers and update web pages so that doesn't happen. We only host 2-3 competitions a year and the last thing we like to hear after all of our efforts to do something really great is here people bash us because we interrupted their climbing schedule, as if you have as much right to climb in our gym as you would outside. We're very proud of our gym and the work we've put into it. I'm sorry we don't have the money to support 60 TRs and have partial closures. We like our gym because it is small and a tightly knit community of climbers, and we really don't like people bashing us on the internet instead of coming to us directly (we can find you!).
Hey, I'm sure you guys have worked very hard, and I'm sorry you took my question as bashing. I'll soften it up a bit because I'd rather my feedback be used for positive change. I also hope the comps went well for you guys. But, yes, there is definitely frustration because I actually do feel like paying to use the gym entitles the members to expect they can use the gym on a regular basis. I also do really want to know: Is closing the gym 4 days for comps a common thing? If it is for you guys, I guess I'll keep a lookout for all your fliers and stuff. In all fairness, I guess I'm used to larger gyms that set a lot faster and have the resources to do partial closures. I hadn't thought of that point, so thanks for enlightening me.

I'll use your criticism and come to you guys next time, but maybe the gym should use this criticism of mine constructively as customer feedback. Like Ski said, faster setting after comps would definitely be a vast improvement and probably decrease the frustration level dramatically. For me and others I know, not having routes reset quickly is probably the chief complaint.
Will S · · Joshua Tree · Joined Nov 2006 · Points: 1,061

Closing for comps sucks my sack. I don't pay >$50/mo to show up to train and not be able to train. At a minimum, if I show up and it's closed for comp setting I want 25% of my monthly fee refunded.

Closely related...setting during the open hours (period...whether comp routes or regular new stuff) also blows...at a minimum get that shit done during the day so when the after-work crowd shows up you don't have half a wall closed off while Sparky McSprayalot sets new routes/problems...tell Sparky to show up to work at 9am instead of 4pm and serve you clientele.

More gym BS: Slacklines in the middle of the gym. Yeah, GREAT idea. Now I have to wait for Johnny Toecheese to fall off the f$%&ing thing before I can cross the gym, and get to duck under the thing to do so...and as an addded bonus, when it's up, it occludes 10+ boulderprobs...hope that's not where you want to run 4x4s or have a problem you're working.

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

General Climbing
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