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Gym closures for comps
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By Colonel Mustard
From Reno, NV
Jan 12, 2011
Colonel Mustard
We head to the gym last night to get a burn in only to notice a lot of folks are streaming out. Inside, the desk guy is apologetic but tells us they're closing early tonight and will be closed the next three days setting up for the youth comp:

Reno RockSport will be closed Wed-Sat, 1/12-1/15, to set up for Regionals
:: ABS Season 12 Youth Regionals Competition is on Saturday, January 15, 2011. We will open the gym to the public on Sunday, January 16th.

So, during the Winter season when outdoor climbing is limited, we get shut down early on Tuesday 1/11, and, really, the paying public won't be able to climb till Sunday the 16th. Four solid days in addition to the early closure for setup/competition. Is this common to other gyms any of you go to? I've been a member of three other gyms over the years and this is unheard of to me: they worked at night, did partial closures, and just worked a lot faster to get the job done without inconveniencing paying members.

FLAG
By Scott McMahon
From Boulder, CO
Jan 12, 2011
Bocan
Being from Boulder...yes. Or section of the gym are ripped down to set up the routes.

I guess that's the price we pay really...I'm sure in some strange way these comps help us as they provide industry interest.

Like my school parking pass...I paid for it, but when there is a sporting event it becomes null and void. But the sports helps the Univserity. oh well...

FLAG
By Hank Caylor
Administrator
From Golden, CO
Jan 12, 2011
Yoda
On the bright side, they usually have a slew of fresh routes when they re-open.

FLAG
By Phil Lauffen
From The Bubble
Jan 12, 2011
RMNP skiing. Photo by Nodin de Saillan
You're one of those boulder gym snobs, aren't you....

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By Hank Caylor
Administrator
From Golden, CO
Jan 12, 2011
Yoda
Phil Lauffen wrote:
You're one of those boulder gym snobs, aren't you....


Nothing snobby about the BRC being AWESOME! But yeah, me, way snobby.

FLAG
By George Heib
Jan 12, 2011
Holding up a lovely BD #4
We usually close of the comp area and keep the rest of the gym open to the public about a week prior to the comp. Reckon we can get away with that though as there are 60 TR stations outside of the bouldering area :D I wouldn't ever imagine closing down the entire gym though that is pretty rare and don't really see this happening in our area.

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By England
From ?
Jan 12, 2011
Alpine toothpick.
Phil Lauffen wrote:
You're one of those boulder gym snobs, aren't you....

I would put money down that you are one also. Let me guess, "The Spot".

FLAG
By Phil Lauffen
From The Bubble
Jan 13, 2011
RMNP skiing. Photo by Nodin de Saillan
England wrote:
I would put money down that you are one also. Let me guess, "The Spot".



Hell NO!!! Bouldering is lam-o! They don't even let me top out on some of their walls... Movement all the way.

FLAG
 
By mark felber
From Wheat Ridge, CO
Jan 13, 2011
Closing a section of the gym for a comp is fine, if there's enough room for people to do some climbing. Closing the entire gym is lame.

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By M Lindfors
From Highlands Ranch
Jan 13, 2011
Sounds like you need a woody!

P.S. I took my kids to Movement once and they charged me $10 to belay them! I don't climb and I have never been back there. The staff was not very nice either.

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By Chris Plesko
From Westminster, CO
Jan 13, 2011
OMG, I winz!!!
If the BRC is closed you can usually go to the spot free for members. Same with the SPOT comps.

The amount of time closed the original poster mentioned would be a bummer but one night or a night and a day doesn't bother me as I have other places to climb and other gyms to go to. Then again we are spoiled in Boulder/Denver area with at least 10 gyms I'm sure.

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By Chris Plesko
From Westminster, CO
Jan 13, 2011
OMG, I winz!!!
M Lindfors wrote:
Sounds like you need a woody! P.S. I took my kids to Movement once and they charged me $10 to belay them! I don't climb and I have never been back there. The staff was not very nice either.


BRC never charges me for my belay bitches either...haha.

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By bergbryce
From South Lake Tahoe, CA
Jan 14, 2011
thumbs down.
I've been turned back probably 4 times the past few years because of some comp related crap upon showing up at the gym.
Closed for 3 or 4 days? That really sucks, I feel ya.

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By Sam Stephens
Jan 14, 2011
Top half of Melifluous
Wow, quit your whining. Not everything revolves around you... The gym decides to host a comp and they have to shut down to route set and you're crying? Deal with it and find something to do for a few days...

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By Greg Carlisle
Jan 14, 2011
Sounds like its time to get outside...the weather this weekend in the Reno area looks real nice. any of the crags or fields in the desert or the edge of the Sierra should be Awesome....good luck with the gym closure....could always go snowboarding.

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By Blue Eisele
Jan 14, 2011
highaltitudefit.net/

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By Hep
Jan 18, 2011
Non-specific problem at Washoe Boulders.
Hello there! I'm that gym employee that told you we were closed. Here's the thing about competitions: 1) They're a ton of work and we don't get to compete in them because we are setting/working them. 2) We LOSE money on competitions because of the T-Shirts/Fliers/Man Hours/Food/Beer that we provide. Most of the money goes directly to USA Climbing and the rest goes towards our kids team so they can travel to other competitions including nationals.

The reason we host competitions is because they're fun and they're for the kids. The last competition was the Regional Championship which is the last stop before nationals where the best youth climbers in the country compete. We need those close dates because we need to make sure we can fine-tune some of the best problems we can. I personally slept on a crash pad for three hours the night before the comp. I'm sorry you found out we were closed when you arrived at the gym, we try to post fliers and update web pages so that doesn't happen. We only host 2-3 competitions a year and the last thing we like to hear after all of our efforts to do something really great is here people bash us because we interrupted their climbing schedule, as if you have as much right to climb in our gym as you would outside. We're very proud of our gym and the work we've put into it. I'm sorry we don't have the money to support 60 TRs and have partial closures. We like our gym because it is small and a tightly knit community of climbers, and we really don't like people bashing us on the internet instead of coming to us directly (we can find you!).

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By SKI
From Portlandia, OR
Jan 18, 2011
Descending the Underhill Couloir
I'm not so much bummed about Rocksport being closed for several days as I am to the fact that it takes seriously FOREVER to put up new routes afterwards there.

We love Rocksport to death but it's frusturating as hell to look forward to the same 4-5 routes for a number of weeks after a comp (especially bouldering) has taken place.

We know that you guys are short-handed yadayada and it takes time to build quality routes but your boss has to dedicate more resources into getting what little space you guys have plastered with new routes ASAP.

We (the people paying your wage) depend on it!!!

FLAG
By bearbreeder
Jan 18, 2011
Paul Heppner wrote:
. I'm sorry we don't have the money to support 60 TRs and have partial closures. We like our gym because it is small and a tightly knit community of climbers, and we really don't like people bashing us on the internet instead of coming to us directly (we can find you!).


i didnt think the OP was so much as bashing as asking about gym closures ...

its a valid question ...

if i were the gym and someone complained ... then id just credit their membership with the closed days ...

but then again im not a gym ;)

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By Colonel Mustard
From Reno, NV
Jan 18, 2011
Colonel Mustard
Paul Heppner wrote:
I'm sorry you found out we were closed when you arrived at the gym, we try to post fliers and update web pages so that doesn't happen. We only host 2-3 competitions a year and the last thing we like to hear after all of our efforts to do something really great is here people bash us because we interrupted their climbing schedule, as if you have as much right to climb in our gym as you would outside. We're very proud of our gym and the work we've put into it. I'm sorry we don't have the money to support 60 TRs and have partial closures. We like our gym because it is small and a tightly knit community of climbers, and we really don't like people bashing us on the internet instead of coming to us directly (we can find you!).


Hey, I'm sure you guys have worked very hard, and I'm sorry you took my question as bashing. I'll soften it up a bit because I'd rather my feedback be used for positive change. I also hope the comps went well for you guys. But, yes, there is definitely frustration because I actually do feel like paying to use the gym entitles the members to expect they can use the gym on a regular basis. I also do really want to know: Is closing the gym 4 days for comps a common thing? If it is for you guys, I guess I'll keep a lookout for all your fliers and stuff. In all fairness, I guess I'm used to larger gyms that set a lot faster and have the resources to do partial closures. I hadn't thought of that point, so thanks for enlightening me.

I'll use your criticism and come to you guys next time, but maybe the gym should use this criticism of mine constructively as customer feedback. Like Ski said, faster setting after comps would definitely be a vast improvement and probably decrease the frustration level dramatically. For me and others I know, not having routes reset quickly is probably the chief complaint.

FLAG
By Will S
From Joshua Tree
Jan 18, 2011
Closing for comps sucks my sack. I don't pay >$50/mo to show up to train and not be able to train. At a minimum, if I show up and it's closed for comp setting I want 25% of my monthly fee refunded.

Closely related...setting during the open hours (period...whether comp routes or regular new stuff) also blows...at a minimum get that shit done during the day so when the after-work crowd shows up you don't have half a wall closed off while Sparky McSprayalot sets new routes/problems...tell Sparky to show up to work at 9am instead of 4pm and serve you clientele.

More gym BS: Slacklines in the middle of the gym. Yeah, GREAT idea. Now I have to wait for Johnny Toecheese to fall off the f$%&ing thing before I can cross the gym, and get to duck under the thing to do so...and as an addded bonus, when it's up, it occludes 10+ boulderprobs...hope that's not where you want to run 4x4s or have a problem you're working.

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By Kid Icarus
Jan 19, 2011
Self Portrait of the Artist as a Young Man
KateS wrote:
Well Zeke, I took an evening before responding to this information. I see that today you deleted some of your more scathing comments from your "rant", but I still feel that it all needs a response. I also feel this is a great topic for discussion, (Look at all the people who have responded.). Paul stated that it would have been great if you, Zeke, would have talked to RockSport staff. I highly encourage all those of you who commented on Mountain Project to inform your gym of these grievances before, and not after the fact. This allows for change and discussion, not just staff/management responding to problems. So here are a couple facts stemming from Zeke's thread: ~USAC REQUIRES a gym to close for a week. There were over 100 volunteers that stepped up to make it happen the days leading up to the competition, and the day of the Regional Competition. Our gym says,"Thank you!!!" by granting those people with a free membership for a month. Maybe your gym has a program like that. That is how we repay our clients for allowing our gym a couple days out of the year that are donated to the kids!! ~Zeke, Reno had some of the warmest weather in history (LITERALLY) in the last week, so climbing 'during the winter season' is a little different when it's 60 degrees Fahrenheit. As someone who participates in the Tahoe Restoration Project you should know of some good outdoor winter climbing. I personally would have rather climbed at the Buttes last week then work indoors for 14-16 hours a day for the last week :) Who wouldn't?!?! ~I am surprised, Zeke, you were surprised that we put on these comps! We are one of the oldest gyms in the country that participated in the youth climbing programs for over 15 years. On that same note, WE ARE HONORED to be one of 15 gyms chosen in the country for the step right before USAC National Youth Championships! ~As 'Blue Eisele' stated there is ALWAYS High Altitude. Enjoy there facility, people, and prices! But be careful; they close for an ENTIRE week for unsactioned comp. ~As SKI said, "We know that you guys are short-handed yadayada and it takes time to build quality routes but your boss has to dedicate more resources into getting what little space you guys have plastered with new routes ASAP. We (the people paying your wage) depend on it!!!" ...It's also up to the boss to charge what other gyms are charging. Due to the economy I would rather keep the doors open to those who need an outlet during 'these times', then create an exclusionary environment that would cripple this tight knit climbing community. One last thing, Zeke, you deleted the part about the shotty routes: We are one of the few gyms in the country that have a Level II certified route setter on staff. We also REQUIRE any setter to take classes AND pass a test before they pick up an impactor! For the rest of you, ask your gym what their standard is! All my setters are burnt out after ABS and SCS but it's only sport climbers that complain during BOTH SEASONS,(...a running joke amongst the staff, so thanks for proving the point this season!). I want to take a moment in closing to state again that I am glad to have this discussion! Obviously there is a point missing between managers/owners of gyms and their clients, but who's responsible for that? Sincerely, Kate Sabo - Operations Manager of RockSport (Married to Dustin Sabo, the Nationally Certified Level II Setter and whose 9 year old daughter Gwen Sabo qualified to goto Nationals during that Regional Competition that was referenced!)


For posterity.

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By J.J
Jan 19, 2011
KateS wrote:
~Zeke, Reno had some of the warmest weather in history (LITERALLY) in the last week, so climbing 'during the winter season' is a little different when it's 60 degrees Fahrenheit. As someone who participates in the Tahoe Restoration Project you should know of some good outdoor winter climbing. I personally would have rather climbed at the Buttes last week then work indoors for 14-16 hours a day for the last week :) Who wouldn't?!?!

There's a smiley face in there so I can't be too mean, but I don't think you can really argue that point. If someone's paying to climb inside, you can't justify your closing by saying that it's better to climb outside. Then again, I wouldn't complain about the gym closure in the first place... :)


KateS wrote:
We are one of the few gyms in the country that have a Level II certified route setter on staff.

I have to be honest, this part was really, really funny to me!

FLAG
By Hank Caylor
Administrator
From Golden, CO
Jan 19, 2011
Yoda
Will S wrote:
Closing for comps sucks my sack. I don't pay >$50/mo to show up to train and not be able to train. At a minimum, if I show up and it's closed for comp setting I want 25% of my monthly fee refunded. Closely related...setting during the open hours (period...whether comp routes or regular new stuff) also blows...at a minimum get that shit done during the day so when the after-work crowd shows up you don't have half a wall closed off while Sparky McSprayalot sets new routes/problems...tell Sparky to show up to work at 9am instead of 4pm and serve you clientele. More gym BS: Slacklines in the middle of the gym. Yeah, GREAT idea. Now I have to wait for Johnny Toecheese to fall off the f$%&ing thing before I can cross the gym, and get to duck under the thing to do so...and as an addded bonus, when it's up, it occludes 10+ boulderprobs...hope that's not where you want to run 4x4s or have a problem you're working.


THAT IS AWESOME!

FLAG
 
By Joe Virtanen
From Asheville, NC
Jan 19, 2011
Pit BBQ
Gonna go ahead and say that Kate could have handled that better.

FLAG
By slim
Administrator
Jan 19, 2011
tomato, tomotto, kill mike amato.
yeah, i'm pretty much with WillS on this one. A lot of us don't have the ability to come in during off hours, due to working the typical 9 to 5.

This seems to be a major oversight by Kate during her rant. Sure, the weather may be nice, but a lot of us leave for work in the dark and come home in the dark during the winter. pretty depressing when the weather is nice during the week, and then turns to shit for the weekend, over and over and over....

the only thing that keeps us from OD'ing on ice cream, or slitting our wrists with scratched up DVD's of Sopranos Season 1 is getting into the gym and desperately trying not to get fat.

FLAG


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