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 ADVANCED
Dickies Cliff
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Gigantor S 
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Lancaster Levels Luxor T 
Seams like a butt TR 

Guys and Ghouls 

YDS: 5.6 French: 4c Ewbanks: 14 UIAA: V British: S 4b

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 110'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.6 French: 4c Ewbanks: 14 UIAA: V British: S 4b [details]
FA: Donette & Todd Swain, George & Catriona Reid, Halloween 1994.
Page Views: 794
Submitted By: Randy Carmichael on Oct 24, 2004

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BETA PHOTO: Dickies Cliff & Gnat Man Crag looking SW

Description 

A scary crack with spooky features.

This wide looking crack is situated in the center of Dickies Cliff. Start right of the crack on some huge huecos, take a left at the empty skull about 15 feet up, jam and face climb to the main crack. Stay in the main crack, and you will finish with fun moves as you pass a black hall to nowhere. "Beyond it is another dimension: a dimension of sound, a dimension of sight, a dimension of mind. You're moving into a land of both shadow and substance, of things and ideas. You've just crossed over into... the Twilight Zone."

If climbed on Halloween, this climb deserves 3 stars; any other time of the year 1 to 2 stars.

I believe this climb is over 100 feet.

Descent: Head right / west and 4th class down the gullies on the right side of the cliff. The third narrow gully on climbers right seemed easiest, but be careful.


Protection 

Standard rack to #4 Camalot. I used a #4 and small cams for the anchor (no bolt anchor).



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By Lando
From: Telluride, Colorado
May 17, 2014

The bulge above the broken 2' hueco is 5.7+ relative to the area, could be reachy for some. The route goes at just over 90' if you extend your pieces; anchor on two Fixe hangers, no rap rings. 8' lead (two moves) exits above the belay ledge. Walk-off with a couple 5-7' downclimbs (climbers left)