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Gutenberger Wall

Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Easy Way Up, The T 
Got Gas? S 
Grandpappy T 
Gutenberger Edge S 
Gutenberger Wall Direct T 
Gutenberger's Wall T 
Lichen Us T 
Long Dong Arch T 
Right Up the Line T 
Sadam. Me? S 
Tanks for the Memories S 
Trout Fishing T,S 

Gutenberger Wall  

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Location: 38.6484, -120.70573 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 7,931
Administrators: Aron Quiter, M.Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer, Justin Johnsen, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Ryan Kosh on Dec 1, 2008
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BETA PHOTO: This shows the routes on the upper and middle wall...


The wall across the river from Buck's Bar Dome. A number of trad multi-pitch routes are available as well as some sport and mixed routes.

The area sees little activity as most people seem to spend their time top roping across the river.

Getting There 

Follow the trail to Buck's Bar Dome and cross the river. Be careful crossing the smooth boulders and of high water during Spring.

Climbing Season

Weather station 6.0 miles from here

12 Total Routes

['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',4],['2 Stars',7],['1 Star',1],['Bomb',0]

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Gutenberger Wall:
The Easy Way Up   5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b     Trad, 1 pitch, 90'   
Gutenberger's Wall   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Trad, 2 pitches, 300'   
Lichen Us   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Trad, 4 pitches, 400'   
Browse More Classics in Gutenberger Wall

Featured Route For Gutenberger Wall
Grandpappy 5.9 R is on the left side of the dome.

Grandpappy 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a CA : Gold Country : ... : Gutenberger Wall
A runout adventure on a pretty section of stone. Rumor has it that the old 1/4" bolts are to be replaced and some bolts added to make this a nicer route. There were only three bolts on the original 50m crux, so, yes, please do. From the "Grand Central Belay Station" (see Will Cottrell's Rock Climbs of Placerville, CA) proceed up and left across the central crack system to the second belay of Lichen Us. Keep proceeding up and left (5.5 or 5.6, no pro) to the belay at the base of a big bulge. T...[more]   Browse More Classics in CA

Photos of Gutenberger Wall Slideshow Add Photo
Walking toward the climbing areas.
Walking toward the climbing areas.
Basic topo of the lines on Gutenberger Wall at Cos...
BETA PHOTO: Basic topo of the lines on Gutenberger Wall at Cos...
This shows the current routes on The Iraqi Wall.
BETA PHOTO: This shows the current routes on The Iraqi Wall.
A view of Gutenberger Wall from further upstream. ...
BETA PHOTO: A view of Gutenberger Wall from further upstream. ...
Looking left (east) on Gutenberger Wall.
Looking left (east) on Gutenberger Wall.
View of the Gutenberger Wall from the top of Buck'...
BETA PHOTO: View of the Gutenberger Wall from the top of Buck'...
General view of the wall.
General view of the wall.
Dihedral Bypass roof.
BETA PHOTO: Dihedral Bypass roof.
The climbers (Andrew, John, Michael) are standing ...
BETA PHOTO: The climbers (Andrew, John, Michael) are standing ...
Gutenberger Wall
BETA PHOTO: Gutenberger Wall
Iraqi Wall (Left), Iraqi Dihedral (Center), and Lo...
BETA PHOTO: Iraqi Wall (Left), Iraqi Dihedral (Center), and Lo...

Comments on Gutenberger Wall Add Comment
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By Dan Umber
From: Rohnert Park, Ca
Apr 10, 2008
I'm suprised to see no info on, what I guess is called, the Gutenberg wall. There is a sweet 5.7 4-pitch trad. route across from bucks bar dome. There are good trad. placements, and a bolt or two to protect some spots that are lacking. The top is a little runout, but easy climbing.
By bob branscomb
From: Lander, WY
Feb 12, 2009
There are two basic approaches to the Dome routes. Both can be impossible in high Spring runoff. You could be swept under the boulders and drowned. Use your head and don't die. One approach, mainly for Grizzly Green, Straight up the Line, and Gutenberger's Wall, is to cross the boulders at the west end of the swimming pool. Squirm up a strange little cleft and then class 3 up mossy slabs and some poison oak to a long ledge about half way up the dome. These routes are above this ledge.
The other way is to cross the slippery boulders at the base of the obvious central crack system. This is a little dicey in a couple of spots. At the base of the dihedral below the cracks, there are several options. Several 5.10ish ways up the dihedral with less than thrilling protection or take a low angle crack out and right until can cut back left to a shallow right facing corner, about 5.5-5.7. This leads to a bolted belay point with a lot of slings called the Grand Central Belay Station. All routes can be climbed to from here, usually by 5.4-5.6 low angle slabs, usually poorly protected.
Descent from the dome routes by several methods. You can rap down Gutenberger's Wall, Lichen Us, Straight Up the Line. All are bolted stations.
By justin01
Dec 10, 2011
We pulled the pin on the last pitch of the 5.7 direct. Just thought you all would like to know. My wife pulled it out with her fingers. Just above I got a decent yellow or orange tcu (can't remember). FYI. The pin was half buried and had a horizontal crack at the edge after we pulled it out.
By Justin Johnsen
From: Sacramento, CA
Feb 25, 2013
The highline routes that have gone up since (at least?) 2011 have had a collateral benefit for us rock climbers. Now the rightmost sport lines on the Gutenberger Wall basically have an extra pitch. Instead of slogging up to the ledge mentioned in the guidebook and the older descriptions here on MP, you can leave the moss and dirt for a lower ledge system - about the same elevation as Grand Central, from what little I could see, and maybe 30 feet below the last rap station - and clip the multitude of highline bolts to belay your leader up a low angle, very mellow warm up pitch.

There, just added a photo showing bodies on the new starting ledge.