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Gutenberger Wall

Routes Sorted
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Easy Way Up, The T 
Got Gas? S 
Grandpappy T 
Gutenberger Edge S 
Gutenberger Wall Direct T 
Gutenberger's Wall T 
Lichen Us T 
Long Dong Arch T 
Right Up the Line T 
Sadam. Me? S 
Tanks for the Memories S 
Trout Fishing T,S 

Gutenberger Wall 


Photos: Recent | Best | Popular
Location: 38.6484, -120.70573 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 7,042
Administrators: Aron Quiter, M.Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer, Justin Johnsen, Kristine Hoffman
Submitted By: Ryan Kosh on Dec 1, 2008
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BETA PHOTO: This shows the routes on the upper and middle wall...

Description 

The wall across the river from Buck's Bar Dome. A number of trad multi-pitch routes are available as well as some sport and mixed routes.

The area sees little activity as most people seem to spend their time top roping across the river.


Getting There 

Follow the trail to Buck's Bar Dome and cross the river. Be careful crossing the smooth boulders and of high water during Spring.


12 Total Routes


['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',4],['2 Stars',7],['1 Star',1],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',1],['5.7',3],['5.8',1],['5.9',4],['5.10',2],['5.11',1],['5.12',0],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Gutenberger Wall:
The Easy Way Up   5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b     Trad, 1 pitch, 90'   
Gutenberger's Wall   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Trad, 2 pitches, 300'   
Lichen Us   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Trad, 4 pitches, 400'   
Browse More Classics in Gutenberger Wall

Featured Route For Gutenberger Wall
Gutenburger Edge is the rightmost in the photo, most easily approached from the Class 3 line through the trees.

Gutenberger Edge 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13  CA : Sacramento Valley/Foothills : ... : Gutenberger Wall
A variant of the second pitch of Gutenberger Wall. After climbing the easy fifth class pitch 1 of Gutenberger Wall, trend right for pitch two and the rock will feature square cut edges on the flakes, rather that the smoother dishes found on the Wall route. Protects with 2 or 3 bolts about 30 feet apart on easy terrain. Rappel down the route with one 60m rope (chains are every 25 m or so)...[more]   Browse More Classics in CA

Photos of Gutenberger Wall Slideshow Add Photo
This shows the current routes on The Iraqi Wall.
BETA PHOTO: This shows the current routes on The Iraqi Wall.
A view of Gutenberger Wall from further upstream. This shows a great view of the angle of most of the climbs on the dome.
BETA PHOTO: A view of Gutenberger Wall from further upstream. ...
Walking toward the climbing areas.
Walking toward the climbing areas.
Basic topo of the lines on Gutenberger Wall at Cosumne River Gorge.
BETA PHOTO: Basic topo of the lines on Gutenberger Wall at Cos...
Iraqi Wall (Left), Iraqi Dihedral (Center), and Lower Gutenberger Wall (Right). Click for high res version. <br /> <br />(1) Scud Buster (5.10c), <br />(2) Sadam. Me? (5.10), <br />(3) Tanks for the Memories (5.10c), <br />(4) Got Gas? (5.9+), <br />(5) Long Dong Arch (5.6), <br />(6) Iraqi Dihedral (5.10+), <br />(7) Dihedral Bypass (5.9), <br />(8) Iraqi Arete (5.10+), <br />(9) Shorty (5.9), <br />(10) The Easy Way Up (5.7), <br />(11) Trout Fishing in America (5.11-)
BETA PHOTO: Iraqi Wall (Left), Iraqi Dihedral (Center), and Lo...
General view of the wall.
General view of the wall.
Dihedral Bypass roof.
BETA PHOTO: Dihedral Bypass roof.
Looking left (east) on Gutenberger Wall.
Looking left (east) on Gutenberger Wall.
The climbers (Andrew, John, Michael) are standing at the start of the "new" extra pitch for climbing the three sport routes on the right side of the Gutenberger Wall.
BETA PHOTO: The climbers (Andrew, John, Michael) are standing ...
Gutenberger Wall
BETA PHOTO: Gutenberger Wall
View of the Gutenberger Wall from the top of Buck's Bar Dome.
BETA PHOTO: View of the Gutenberger Wall from the top of Buck'...
Comments on Gutenberger Wall Add Comment
Show which comments
By Dan Umber
From: Rohnert Park, Ca
Apr 10, 2008

I'm suprised to see no info on, what I guess is called, the Gutenberg wall. There is a sweet 5.7 4-pitch trad. route across from bucks bar dome. There are good trad. placements, and a bolt or two to protect some spots that are lacking. The top is a little runout, but easy climbing.

By bob branscomb
From: Lander, WY
Feb 12, 2009

There are two basic approaches to the Dome routes. Both can be impossible in high Spring runoff. You could be swept under the boulders and drowned. Use your head and don't die. One approach, mainly for Grizzly Green, Straight up the Line, and Gutenberger's Wall, is to cross the boulders at the west end of the swimming pool. Squirm up a strange little cleft and then class 3 up mossy slabs and some poison oak to a long ledge about half way up the dome. These routes are above this ledge.
The other way is to cross the slippery boulders at the base of the obvious central crack system. This is a little dicey in a couple of spots. At the base of the dihedral below the cracks, there are several options. Several 5.10ish ways up the dihedral with less than thrilling protection or take a low angle crack out and right until can cut back left to a shallow right facing corner, about 5.5-5.7. This leads to a bolted belay point with a lot of slings called the Grand Central Belay Station. All routes can be climbed to from here, usually by 5.4-5.6 low angle slabs, usually poorly protected.
Descent from the dome routes by several methods. You can rap down Gutenberger's Wall, Lichen Us, Straight Up the Line. All are bolted stations.

By justin01
Dec 10, 2011

We pulled the pin on the last pitch of the 5.7 direct. Just thought you all would like to know. My wife pulled it out with her fingers. Just above I got a decent yellow or orange tcu (can't remember). FYI. The pin was half buried and had a horizontal crack at the edge after we pulled it out.

By Justin Johnsen
Administrator
From: Sacramento, CA
Feb 25, 2013

The highline routes that have gone up since (at least?) 2011 have had a collateral benefit for us rock climbers. Now the rightmost sport lines on the Gutenberger Wall basically have an extra pitch. Instead of slogging up to the ledge mentioned in the guidebook and the older descriptions here on MP, you can leave the moss and dirt for a lower ledge system - about the same elevation as Grand Central, from what little I could see, and maybe 30 feet below the last rap station - and clip the multitude of highline bolts to belay your leader up a low angle, very mellow warm up pitch.

There, just added a photo showing bodies on the new starting ledge.