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Gutenberger Wall
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Gutenberger Edge 

YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b PG13

   
Type:  Sport, 2 pitches, 300'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b [details]
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Submitted By: Tim Camuti on Nov 10, 2009

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BETA PHOTO: Gutenburger Edge is the rightmost in the photo, mo...

Description 

A variant of the second pitch of Gutenberger Wall. After climbing the easy fifth class pitch 1 of Gutenberger Wall, trend right for pitch two and the rock will feature square cut edges on the flakes, rather that the smoother dishes found on the Wall route. Protects with 2 or 3 bolts about 30 feet apart on easy terrain. Rappel down the route with one 60m rope (chains are every 25 m or so)


Location 

The rightmost route on Gutenberger Wall, Edge is a one pitch variant of Gutenberger Wall that follows more square cut edging features.


Protection 

Quickdraws. Each pitch has chain anchors.



Comments on Gutenberger Edge Add Comment
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By Mark Romportl
Dec 11, 2011

G Edge really only needs draws for pro? Is it a true sport climb or are cams & nuts necessary?

By Justin Johnsen
Administrator
From: Sacramento, CA
Feb 25, 2013
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13

Mark, it's pure sport. The bolts are, um, sparse. Not quite runout. If by chance you found trad pro on this section of the wall, it would be chossy as hell. There are a few small features higher up, but I wouldn't even trust body weight on some. Stick to the friction and occasional knob.