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The Whale's Tail
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Amputee Love 
C'est What? 
Dihedral One 
Dihedral Two 
East Slabs 
Finger Crack 
Free Speech 
Gut Feeling 
Jack The Ripper 
Kid's Climb 
Left Arete 
Monument, The 
NED (Nothing Except Dynamics) 
New Cambria 
No Problem 
Northeast Arete 
Second Coming 
Spoof Roof 
West Crack 
West Dihedral 
West Face [Whale's Tail] 
Yorkshire Ripper, The 

Gut Feeling 

YDS: 5.10 French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII- British: E2 5b R

Type: Trad, 1 pitch, 80'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10 French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII- British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Mike Brooks, 1981?
Page Views: 302
Submitted By: Tony B on Jul 9, 2003
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Climbing reopened after flood MORE INFO >>>


This route can be found on the Tourist Trail below the Whale's Tail, between the pedestrian Bridge and the Monument Cave. Walk along the trail past a thin, open, left-facing dihedral. ([Dihedral One]) and to a second one, still right facing, undulating dihedral (Dihedral Two.) You will notice a series of chalked up holds working up and left on jugs to the left of dihedral a meter or two. Along the way you will pad a tapped-in gutter nail. Continuing the climb upward, through the roof, is easier than stopping for protection anyway, but obviously heady. Once on the slab, protect and start climbing right, towards the anchors above "M." These chain & links are good for a lower off or stationary belay.


You can place a few pieces in Dihedral Two, nearby and keep stepping right to do so (.5-2" cams) or you can just run this out a little. Take long slings. Once on the upper slab, it was easy to put in directionals and go to the sport anchor and lower or rap off above 'M'.

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