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 ADVANCED
Wipeyur Buttress
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Brown Bunny S 
Chocolate Corner S 
F.U.D.G.E. S 
Gut Bomb S 
Heinous Anus  S 
Holy Crap S 
Junk in the Trunk S 
Morning Thunder S 
Mr. Hanky S 
Paper S 
Plastic S 
Silent But Deadly S 
Snapping Station S 
Tailwinds S 
Tramp Stamp S 
Turd Burglar S 
Tusk S 
Upperdeck-n-spackle S 
Unsorted Routes:

Gut Bomb 

YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 85'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Little help here?
Page Views: 272
Submitted By: J. Albers on Oct 9, 2012

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (3)
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BETA PHOTO: Overview topo of the left side of the Wipeyur Butt...

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Description 

This has reasonably fun climbing on decent rock. The crux involves liebacking and stemming up a sometimes slick corner. The rock is pretty solid until the end where there are definitely some blocks that should be cleaned out; just watch what you grab as the route heads right towards the anchors at the top of the climb.

Location 

Gut Bomb is the 4th climb (the first is Heinous Anus) up the gully that begins on the far left side of the Wipeyur Buttress.

Protection 

15 bolts (including 5 in the approach gully) plus anchors.


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By Parker Wrozek
Jun 21, 2015
rating: 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b

Fun line. You run up the chimney and then go from there. We brought the belayer up to this point and tied off to the first bolt on the route. Really couldn't find a better way to do it without a lot of rope drag and potential fall danger.

The movement is fun, and it is worth the effort to do this line.

I would grade it at 10d. If the line above it is 10b (which I think it is), this was much harder.

With a 70m rope, you can rap all the way down the chimney.
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