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Gunung Sireh: Fairy Caves

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Batman Wall 
Fairy Cave Wall 
Nepenthes Wall 
Stage Wall (Baby Wall) 
Zoo Wall 

Gunung Sireh: Fairy Caves 


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Administrator: Kristine Hoffman
Submitted By: Glen Charnoski on Nov 2, 2011
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Description 

A popular weekend destination with locals, "Fairy Caves" (as its signposted from Kuching) is a typical limestone karst hillock in the Bau region...and the best and most popular climbing area in Sarawak. Fairy Cave itself is located within Gunung Sireh (Chalk Mnt)and can be explored along a footpath. Most climbing areas are situated close to the caves. There are 5 main climbing areas located at Gunung Sireh: Batman Wall, Stage Wall, Fairy Cave Wall, Nepenthes Wall, and Zoo Wall (located on the other side of the mnt).


Getting There 

From the provincial capital of Kuching, its about 30 minutes by taxi to Bau, the town closest to Fairy Caves (where most of the sport routes are) and 15 minutes to the caves from Bau. Take a lunch and plent of water, as there are neither at the caves.
For the budget traveler, you could take a bus to Bau, and then a taxi to the caves. Rental cars are expensive, but might be worth the cost if you plan to climb there a few days. Of course, the best option is getting in touch with one of the local climbers, who have always been very willing to pick you up and take you there with them, especially on Sunday, when everyone meets for breakfast in Kuching, then carpool to the caves.


Climbing Season


33 Total Routes


['4 Stars',2],['3 Stars',10],['2 Stars',16],['1 Star',5],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',0],['5.7',1],['5.8',4],['5.9',1],['5.10',11],['5.11',9],['5.12',5],['5.13',2],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]


Featured Route For Gunung Sireh: Fairy Caves
Kapur Chimney is on the left side of this photo. The climber is resting on Simtoi (5.12a).

Kapur Chimney 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b  Asia : Malaysia : ... : Batman Wall
The crux is the start. Pull hard from the undercling traversing right to reach small holds where you can heelhook over the lip to gain a stance above the lip. Otherwise, an easier start goes straight up to a hidden pocket deep in the hollow, then traverse right, then up the vertical smooth wall. Do an armlock in the chimney to ascend. A second crux comes in the smooth chimney with no feet (or step on the bolt like my wife) to gain an easier ground to big holds finish. ...[more]   Browse More Classics in International

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