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Gunsmoke Wall
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Corner Problem 
Gunsmoke 
High Noon 
Shanghai Noon 

Gunsmoke 

Hueco: V3 Font: 6A

   
Type:  Boulder, 80'
Consensus:  Hueco: V3 Font: 6A [details]
FA: John Bachar
Page Views: 12,962
Submitted By: M.Morley on Jan 1, 2002

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John with fantastic static tension hitting the cru...

Description 

Classic. Like Yosemite's Midnight Lightning, Hueco Tank's Ghetto Simulator or Boulder's Monkey Traverse, Gunsmoke requires little introduction.

The Gunsmoke Traverse is L-shaped and is usually done from left to right. Start as far left as possible, move right along the wall for about 50' past 2 crux sections, turn the corner (third crux), and continue another 35' along rails to a final bulge. If your guns aren't too smoked, reverse your moves back to the start.

GUNSMOKE IS LIKELY THE SINGLE MOST CROWDED ROUTE IN THE PARK, and it's not uncommon to find a dozen or more people there at any given time. Several other quality problems can be found in the vicinity, including the classic stemming problem Streetcar Named Desire (V6) and The Chube (V2). Southern exposure makes this a hot one during mid-day - best done in the late afternoon.


Protection 

Crash pad.



Photos of Gunsmoke Slideshow Add Photo
Myself on the 1st half of Gunsmoke Traverse
Myself on the 1st half of Gunsmoke Traverse
Myself towards the end of gunsmoke figuring out the beta. <br /> <br />(Jackie Trejo)
Myself towards the end of gunsmoke figuring out th...
Dave Bruckman doing a lap.  Early '80s?
Dave Bruckman doing a lap. Early '80s?
Gunsmoke
Gunsmoke
Gunsmoke- long view.
Gunsmoke- long view.
Hannah gives mom a spot as she nears the crux. Copyright 2003, by Randy V.
Hannah gives mom a spot as she nears the crux. Cop...
Gunsmoke Traverse from the trail leading up to the rock
BETA PHOTO: Gunsmoke Traverse from the trail leading up to the...
Chris pumping and soaking up the sun on the Gunsmoke.  He liked the name so much, he then decided to have a smoke.
Chris pumping and soaking up the sun on the Gunsmo...
Self portrait; just after the start
Self portrait; just after the start
races in reverse
races in reverse
GS
GS
I wish I could do this traverse
I wish I could do this traverse
Carol with some short person's beta for what becomes the crux if you can't do a certain reach. Also possible to crimp directly across on a couple of very small slopey crimps though she finds this easier. Photo by Andrew Su.
Carol with some short person's beta for what becom...
A well earned rest....
A well earned rest....
Matt just past the crux on Gunsmoke
Matt just past the crux on Gunsmoke
Heading for a rest in the corner.
Heading for a rest in the corner.
dyno
dyno
Approaching crux #1 Photo by T.Tennessee
Approaching crux #1 Photo by T.Tennessee
Nailing the short person crux.
Nailing the short person crux.
You can get a good rest if you do a heel/toe cam where my foot is
BETA PHOTO: You can get a good rest if you do a heel/toe cam w...
left wall.  (photo: Dave Verdugo)
left wall. (photo: Dave Verdugo)
Margaret on Gunsmoke.
Margaret on Gunsmoke.
Me on the Onsight
Me on the Onsight
Gunsmoke V3, Topo
BETA PHOTO: Gunsmoke V3, Topo
Marc on Gunsmoke.
Marc on Gunsmoke.
Comments on Gunsmoke Add Comment
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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Feb 10, 2014
By Murf
Nov 12, 2002

If there is a huge crowd at Gunsmoke, go check out "The Chubb"(V2). It's in a group of three boulders a little further up the trail and to the left from Gunsmoke. Bring a crash pad!

By Gary Kleiger
Mar 20, 2003

This is just such an excellent problem. It is one of my favorites. I only wish it wasn't so popular as the area can be quite crowded with beginners.

V2: This problem, while long and strenuous, has no truly difficult moves on it. Also, in the interest of rating problems to suggest the difficulty, and not use it to boost one's ego (see Happy Boulders), lets call this one V2.

By Adam Stackhouse
Administrator
Mar 8, 2006
rating: V2 5+

Except for a move or two turning the corner, this boulder problem is completely safe, positive and very fun. I remember being "lapped" by the Birdman...

By veritus
From: redlands, ca
Feb 19, 2008
rating: V1 5

V grades are based on the single most difficult move. Nothing on this traverse is more difficult than v1. Just because its super pumpy and not many v4 and under climbers can do it doesn't mean its v3. If it was in europe it wouldn't be given a bouldering grade.

By Diego Rivera
From: Boulder, CO
May 12, 2008

Let's just call it 11c, that's what it is, an 80ft route.

By Andy Liu
From: Mammoth Lakes, CA
Jan 30, 2010

By Ian G.
From: PDX, OR
Feb 27, 2010

I may be referring to the "birdman" but...

Has anyone ever been to this problem and seen the crazy guy who sits in the corner and keeps attempting a lockoff move and then stepping off. I was there once and he tried this same move about fifty times. He would mumble to himself in between attempts. He was there every time I've been to Gunsmoke, but last week he was absent! Did anything happen to him?

By Theo Colameco
From: Boulder,Co.
Mar 20, 2010

Back in 90 I was in J-Tree, having been witness to the Birdman on this problem, me and my partners were exultant, when said Birdman climbed on our top ropes out in the Big Moe alcove.Not on said Big Moe but on another line across from it. Up the climb and then down the climb, again up another time then down again. Quiet as he was,he spoke with his climbing, his precision.Hearing the Birdman still stomps this line is Awesome !! Thanks for the inspiration Birdman!!!

By T B
Aug 31, 2011

I found this traverse in maybe 1981? when it was virgin. Pretty exciting find. Guess its good to see plenty enjoy it... but most crowed in the Tree? Whoa. After a few weeks of having it to myself, I showed it off to some of the Uplanders I was hanging out with at the time, and we worked it for a few months (weekends) after that, before anyone else knew of it.

It got it's name one day when John and Mike approached me while loafing at a campsite in Hidden Valley and asked me if I knew anything about the traverse near Barker. To which I replied... um yes. John commented that he thought it was Yaniro's secret work out area.... and asked if I had named it (Hadn't). I had told him I considered calling it Joe's Garage (Zappa... which John had inadvertently turned me on to one day hanging out at Mike Brown's tent in Tuolumne). Don't remember if it was John or Mike that mentioned there was already a Joe's Garage. John asked what I thought (John was always a class act) about "Gunsmoke"... "Cause when your done... your guns are smokin'". I concurred (he had a talent for naming stuff... like Cellulite Eliminator in the Meadows) and so it was.

By Justin Sarvela
From: Duluth, Minnesota
Jan 20, 2013
rating: V3 6A

Saw "The Birdman" there last weekend...

By Crotch Robbins
Feb 10, 2014

There's a new (to me) foothold at the crux move (from left to right) which brings the difficulty of that span down a couple of letter grades for those with shorter wingspans. I haven't been to Gunsmoke in a while so it must have been added in the last three or four years.