Gunsmoke
V3 YDS 6A Font
Type: | Boulder, 80 ft (24 m) |
FA: | John Bachar |
Page Views: | 55,208 total · 193/month |
Shared By: | Mike Morley on Dec 31, 2001 · Updates |
Admins: | Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes, Greg Opland, C Miller, Gunkswest |
1. Vegetation is not allowed to be used as an anchor.
2. Only neutral or rock colored bolt hangers are allowed.
For a complete list of climbing rules and closures visit:
nps.gov/jotr/planyourvisit/…
Description
This is perhaps the most classic Joshua Tree boulder problem. It's as famous as Yosemite's Midnight Lightning, Hueco Tank's Ghetto Simulator or Boulder's Monkey Traverse, Gunsmoke requires little introduction.
The Gunsmoke Traverse is L-shaped and is usually done from left to right. Start as far left as possible, move right along the wall for about 50' past 2 crux sections, turn the corner (third crux), and continue another 35' along rails to a final bulge. If your guns aren't too smoked, reverse your moves back to the start (in days of yore, to legitimately claim to have done the problem required completely traversing across in both directions and the problem was rated 5.11+).
It's not uncommon to find a dozen or more people here at any given time. Several other quality problems can be found in the vicinity, including the classic stemming problem Streetcar Named Desire (V6) and The Chube (V2).
Southern exposure makes this a hot one during mid-day - best done in the late afternoon.
In the late 1980s and much of the 1990s, a local climber known as The Birdman dominated this problem. He could be found on the route every afternoon. At the height of his powers, he completed roughly 35 passes of the traverse without stepping onto the ground!!!!
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