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Ridge 1 aka Stairway to Heaven
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Guardian, The S 
Gunky T 
In God We Trust T 
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Like Hell It Is T 
Love T 
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Who, Who? T 

Gunky 

YDS: 5.11b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E3 5c PG13

   
Type:  Trad, 2 pitches, 150'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E3 5c [details]
FA: S. Woodruff, T. Beaman, B. Gilbert, 1975
Season: Spring to fall
Page Views: 322
Submitted By: Tony B on Nov 4, 2007

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (2)
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  • Some crags in this area are closed 1 February to 31 July: MORE INFO >>>
  • Climbing areas reopened after flood MORE INFO >>>

  • Description 

    This is a deceptively hard boulder problem to a moderate route.

    Start from the ground on a few mail slots and power up to a sloper or a shallow pocket before clasping the edge of a crack and flake. Be prepared for the fact that it isn't over yet... setting gear here will be strenuous, and a fall without it ill-advised.

    Step up off of the stack of stones which normally sits below this route, or clasp the bomber left jug and hop to the right to get started. No matter which, this was not the crux. Hook a heel hard right on the long slope and work your way up on less-than choice holds to the left-leaning crack above (crux). The existing Flatirons guide lists this at 5.10d, but it seemed a few letter grades harder to me and to my partner.

    Once pulled onto vertical terrain, continue up for a short distance, to about the place of the fixed sling for the rap from 'Like Heaven.' Traverse hard right to a spot where you are looking up a long, shallow corner into the 'Slot' of the summit of 'Like Heaven.' Find a belay to avoid a drag penalty later. Finish the route as for Slot, climbing up cracks and into and through the clean bomb-bay chimney up top, which is far easier than it looks (5.8) Belay up top and finish on the summit of Like Heaven and rap down.

    Location 

    Just downhill (right) of the left-facing dihedral at the left edge of the Like Heaven tower, 2 incut slots lie just within reach of the ground, just above those, a slanting flake created a left-leaning crack. This is the start of the route.

    Protection 

    Rack, a standard rack with long slings added.

    From the ground, one could "toss" a hex into the crack above for protection of the crux, which might be a good idea. It appeared that a #7-#9 might be best.


    Comments on Gunky Add Comment
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    By Joshua Merriam
    From: Boulder, CO
    Oct 6, 2008

    I went to go look at the underside of the Like Heaven pinnacle and thought that the route heading up the final overhang was the finish for Gunky. It has at least two pitons near the base of the overhang where one would traverse in from the left, and would take gear in the cracks up the center, topping out on the very tip.
    By slim
    Administrator
    May 9, 2011
    rating: 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13

    This is a really cool route. You can protect the start by lobbing a big stopper into the constriction, which is a blessing as doing it without protection would be kind of dicey. Strenuous but brief. I set up a belay immediately after to give my 2nd more of a "crisp" belay.

    The upper pitch is a really great 5.8 pitch that is long, fairly sustained, good climbing, good pro yet kind of exciting, and has a fairly climactic ending.

    Do it!