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May 26, 2013
Katahdin
I'm looking for a partner in the Gunks who can climb on weekdays. Would love to head to New Paltz Tuesday evening and camp until 5/31. Mostly looking to follow up to 5.9, TR some 5.10 and maybe lead 5.6-7. I've been climbing for a few months and looking to gain experience . Have had the fortune of some very good instruction on rope skills, have references for skills learned. No car, but can meet at bus stop in New Paltz, at the cliff, or in the city and split cost of rental car. Taylor Radigan
Joined Mar 31, 2013
5 points
May 26, 2013
Closest I can come to that is tomorrow, sorry. And I realize it's a holiday so most folks have things to do. Gunkiemike
Joined Jul 29, 2009
1,730 points
May 26, 2013
PM sent. Dana Bartlett
From CT
Joined Nov 18, 2003
963 points
May 28, 2013
Rumney
5.6-7 are not beginner's grades for leading at the Gunks. (fwiw)

But I have met some exceptional climbers who dove in at 5.6-7 there. If you're exceptional then I guess the grade doesn't actually matter.

The weekdays are awesome at the Gunks, good luck finding someone! :)
Kevin Heckeler
From Upstate New York
Joined Jul 10, 2010
1,539 points
May 28, 2013
Clear Creek Golden, CO.
HI there,

I will be at the Gunks on Tomorrow eve climbing all day on thursday my jose if you have found a partner yet shoot me a text or call me at

646-338-8562.

Cheers,
Jose
jose Rodriguez
From Denver
Joined Mar 20, 2008
20 points
May 28, 2013
Epic free solo with a pack on
Kevin Heckeler wrote:
5.6-7 are not beginner's grades for leading at the Gunks. (fwiw) But I have met some exceptional climbers who dove in at 5.6-7 there. :)


extrapolate
Ben Brotelho
From Albany, NY
Joined May 4, 2011
700 points
May 28, 2013
Doubleissima free solo
Kevin Heckeler wrote:
5.6-7 are not beginner's grades for leading at the Gunks. (fwiw) But I have met some exceptional climbers who dove in at 5.6-7 there. If you're exceptional then I guess the grade doesn't actually matter. The weekdays are awesome at the Gunks, good luck finding someone! :)


Give me a break. Only exceptional beginners are capable of leading beginner level climbs?
Jon Clark
From Philadelphia, PA
Joined Apr 15, 2009
369 points
May 28, 2013
I think leading those classic Gunks 5.6-5.7 lines is less about being an exceptional climber and more about being comfortable leading what might be an exposed climb and being able to place gear you trust.

Most anybody can pull themselves to the top of these 5.6-5.7 routes, it is more a matter of doing so safely while feeling comfortable and confident in ones abilities.
turbotime
From CT
Joined Sep 28, 2012
0 points
May 28, 2013
Rumney
turbotime wrote:
I think leading those classic Gunks 5.6-5.7 lines is less about being an exceptional climber and more about being comfortable leading what might be an exposed climb and being able to place gear you trust. Most anybody can pull themselves to the top of these 5.6-5.7 routes, it is more a matter of doing so safely while feeling comfortable and confident in ones abilities.


^^^ This [although I'd argue 'gear that holds' is more important than 'gear I trust'... ;-) I've followed many new climbers who place great head gear that wouldn't hold a 1 foot fall]

There's certainly easier 5.6 and 5.7 routes with safe falls (assuming the leader is placing good gear). But the grades at the Gunks are everywhere (as is common climber's knowledge). I would not blindly suggest sending a new leader up just any 5.6-7 there. It's just not that simple. Too many ledges, awkward stances/placements, potential pendulums into corners, etc on most sub-5.8 routes and a single blown piece could seriously hurt or kill someone.

It's never bad advice to heed caution. Especially when inexperienced. Not everyone on MP is coming out of a gym TR'ing 5.11b, nor does everyone subscribe to learning to lead on the sharp end. New climbers are rarely the best judges for their own abilities, how could they? What frame of reference do they have? There's no finish line so there's no need to race. This advice is not unusual. The fact there's been any resistence is, frankly, a little scary.
Kevin Heckeler
From Upstate New York
Joined Jul 10, 2010
1,539 points
May 28, 2013
Jonathan Clark wrote:
Give me a break. Only exceptional beginners are capable of leading beginner level climbs?


I won't reply to this (above) comment specifically, but I understand where Kevin is coming from and I agree with that perspective. The OP has been climbing "a few months" and wants to lead 5.7. She's been placing gear for, what, maybe a few WEEKS? That's a bit of a scary situation - falls aren't clean on 7's, and new leaders all too often (nb - not aiming this at the OP, whom I've never met and know nothing about) don't have the judgement needed to evaluate their own gear OR to avoid falling. As was pointed out above, one blown piece and the consequences can be severe.
Gunkiemike
Joined Jul 29, 2009
1,730 points
May 28, 2013
Katahdin
This is all great advice. Whether I can or can't jump in to leading at 5.6 or 5.7 in the Gunks, it's a way better idea to start at a lower grade or do a mock lead than find out I can't the wrong way. I'll climb a couple days this week, see how it goes and the climbs I want to do will still be there next time. Taylor Radigan
Joined Mar 31, 2013
5 points
May 28, 2013
Lucander off the GT Ledge on p. 2 of Keep on Strut...
Will you folks quit bickering and go climb with tradigan21? lucander
From Stone Ridge, NY
Joined Apr 1, 2009
334 points
May 29, 2013
Rumney
lucander wrote:
Will you folks quit bickering and go climb with tradigan21?


Sure, just call my boss and tell them to pay me for the rest of the week while I go climb... ;-)

Tradigan, if you want specific suggestions for some leads in the 5.4-5.5 range that are not gimmes but can be sewn up just ask. I find doing 5.5 at the Gunks is either too easy or more than I expect. 5.fun is usually around 5.3 , and at this point I feel like I can solo much of those routes. But 5.5 is generally the grade at the Gunks I (and many other experienced Gunks climbers I know) suggest for beginning leaders. And really just specific 5.5 and 5.6- climbs. Since you're climbing during the week there's no shortage of quality options in that grade (Horseman, Frog's Head (5.6-), Sixish (5.4+), Middle Earth, Rhododendron (5.6-)). Then if you feel good, there's equally easy to sew up 5.6 routes. I'd stay out of the Nears for this trip. Lots of traversing and rope drag scenerios. Having the Trapps during the weekdays is plenty of climb time and route possibilities, no need to venture to the Nears.

The reason most experienced climbers suggest starting leading on easier stuff is that effectively the new leader is soloing the pitch, because their gear is suspect much of the time (may or may not hold a fall). It's kinda like ice climbing in that respect, place gear but don't fall. lol At some point your follows will stop commenting on bad placements and you'll know you're doing better. If your follows aren't saying anything, find someone to climb with that gives a shit.
Kevin Heckeler
From Upstate New York
Joined Jul 10, 2010
1,539 points
May 29, 2013
I'll probably be heading up this evening and climbing thursday and friday. i'd love to meet up and show you around to some easier classic climbs.

also, if anyone is going to be around any of these days and wants to get on something in the more 5.9-5.10B range, give me a call. my number is (nine-oh-ate) 397 3183
T.L. Kushner
Joined May 21, 2009
7 points
May 29, 2013
The traverse out to the Yellow Ridge on the Dogsti...
I agree with other posters who have suggested that 5.6-5.7 in the Gunks is not a good level for someone with only a little trad experience to begin leading. And the issues go well beyond whether the gear placed is good or not. Gunks climbing is steep, and many of the climbs, easy or not, have things to hit if you fall too far. In my experience, relatively new leaders fail to get gear in and run it out when they get a little stressed, and this is as much or more of a problem than how good the gear is, because no gear isn't good period.

So in addition to gear placement skills, there is a host of mental attitudes about performance under duress that has to be learned. The acquisition of these attitudes is enormously dependent on the individual, which makes it nearly impossible to make blanket recommendations. I'd still say that Gunks 5.7 is a very questionable choice for a relatively new leader, unless they are mentally very "mature" in the climbing sense, and very few new leaders are.

The mention of Frogshead as a possibility gives me the shivers. Over the years, there has been a stream of accidents on the crux bulge when the key protection nut lifts out under rope tension. The leader has to understand the effects of rope geometry very clearly and has to (1) construct placements that won't lift and (2) make sure there is a redundant non-lifting backup piece as close as possible. A relatively large number of new leaders have failed at (1); those who also failed at (2) had very nasty accidents.

Another accident-prone route to avoid is High Corner.
rgold
From Poughkeepsie, NY
Joined Feb 15, 2008
308 points
May 29, 2013
Rumney
rgold wrote:
The mention of Frogshead as a possibility gives me the shivers. Over the years, there has been a stream of accidents on the crux bulge when the key protection nut lifts out under rope tension. The leader has to understand the effects of rope geometry very clearly and has to (1) construct placements that won't lift and (2) make sure there is a redundant non-lifting backup piece as close as possible. A relatively large number of new leaders have failed at (1); those who also failed at (2) had very nasty accidents.


Well stated. I did that relatively early on as a leader, and as you suggested, it seemed obvious to backup the nut. I also didn't find that move as hard or heady as the next one (with smaller/smeary feet, iirc). I've done the climb a few times since and most able bodied climbers seem to breeze through it whether on the sharp end or not. Just want to clarify my recommendation wasn't blind, but respect when people report issues I haven't seen. The ledge below the first crux is definitely worthy of noting and planning for.

Is there a opposing nut placement that can be used at that first bulge? Been long enough I don't remember the exact gear placement...
Kevin Heckeler
From Upstate New York
Joined Jul 10, 2010
1,539 points
May 29, 2013
Chris Vultaggio leads the title route at Five and ...
lucander wrote:
Will you folks quit bickering and go climb with tradigan21?


...seriously. DL I may be up friday with a tasty brew in hand if you're around.
chris_vultaggio
Joined Dec 22, 2008
326 points
Jun 1, 2013
Top out on Black Dagger
I climbed with Miss Radigan on Thursday and Friday.
She had her hands full following Bunny and Andrew on Thursday. Bunny was quite wet and she lost some skin getting started. The heat was unbearable by the time we topped out on Andrew so we decided to cool off with a swim and then hung out in town.
On Friday we climbed the first pitch of Easy O and the first pitch of Beginners Delight before she called it a day. We hung out at split rock for a while before she headed home.
I think tradigan should rack up some mileage following easy routes for a while before leading anything.
Tony Lopez
From NJ
Joined Aug 7, 2011
742 points
Mar 31, 2015
Taylor Radigan wrote:
I'm looking for a partner in the Gunks who can climb on weekdays. Would love to head to New Paltz Tuesday evening and camp until 5/31. Mostly looking to follow up to 5.9, TR some 5.10 and maybe lead 5.6-7. I've been climbing for a few months and looking to gain experience . Have had the fortune of some very good instruction on rope skills, have references for skills learned. No car, but can meet at bus stop in New Paltz, at the cliff, or in the city and split cost of rental car.

Are you still looking for a partner? If so give me a call. Im interested in climbing tomorrow and Thursday.

Simeon 267 596 3147
Simeon d
Joined Mar 31, 2015
0 points
Mar 31, 2015
Harvest Moon
I think you're a couple years late on this post sara pax
From western mass
Joined Jun 29, 2013
208 points
Apr 1, 2015
Katahdin
Simeon d wrote:
Are you still looking for a partner? If so give me a call. Im interested in climbing tomorrow and Thursday. Simeon 267 596 3147


Haha, not those days at least. I broke my ankle pretty badly over the winter and get my next set of x-rays done tomorrow and might be able to start climbing again.
Taylor Radigan
Joined Mar 31, 2013
5 points
Apr 2, 2015
a1
Taylor we get out every Sunday if you wantto join us .I know you schedule is weekdays off but if you find a free Sunday were usually a party of three .hope all's well. Ed Bustamante
From accord
Joined Oct 2, 2012
73 points
Apr 3, 2015
Katahdin
Hey Ed, how's it going? I got the okay from my doctor to start easing back into climbing. I'm planning on getting out and doing a little backpacking this week, if my ankle feels good with that I'd most likely be in for next Sunday. Taylor Radigan
Joined Mar 31, 2013
5 points
May 11, 2015
Hi there, I am from Oregon and am flying out to Connecticut this wednesday. I have a free checked luggage, so I am thinking about taking my gear and making side trip out to the Gunks on Monday the 18th. Is there anyone interested in meeting up. I don't have much trad gear, but can clean it. I do a lot of sport stuff out here in the NW. I enjoy climbing 5.8-5.10b/c. If anyone wants to put up come trad routes, I'll happily clean or just meet up for some fun TR sessions.

I am an easy going personable guy. I am also a photographer too (www.vancewalstra.com) and will have my camera with me, so would also be down to do some climbing photography if anyone wants to come out with some other climbers, I could get some rad shots on the wall.

Thanks!
vancewalstra
Joined Feb 9, 2012
0 points
May 12, 2015
Taylor Radigan wrote:
I'm looking for a partner in the Gunks who can climb on weekdays. Would love to head to New Paltz Tuesday evening and camp until 5/31. Mostly looking to follow up to 5.9, TR some 5.10 and maybe lead 5.6-7. I've been climbing for a few months and looking to gain experience . Have had the fortune of some very good instruction on rope skills, have references for skills learned. No car, but can meet at bus stop in New Paltz, at the cliff, or in the city and split cost of rental car.



Hey, I'm free to climb Monday through Wednesday starting next week. Got off an injury recently and would prefer not to lead anything above 5.6 right now.

Shoot me a text, 201 838 0760
Ezra Lopez
From Maywood, NJ
Joined May 23, 2014
0 points
May 14, 2015
Moab
Howdy Taylor,

Hey, I'll be home visiting from Jackson, WY until the 24th. I'll be down to climb whenever I'm on vacation/seeing the family (although I'd rather be spending ten day vacation in Moab/the Tetons)! I'm bringing my full trad rack/rope, so we'll be good to go there. If you're interested,
Text or call. (413) 426-0093

Michael
Michael Azevedo
Joined Apr 26, 2015
20 points


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