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Feb 5, 2012
inner chi
I am looking for some closure beta on Disco Death March in the gunks. Dick Williams guide says "Start 5 feet right of Big Chimney, Diagonal up right to base of obvious off-width crack, and follow crack to ledge at base of chimney". But, recently I was told that it actually starts underneath the big roof facing the traps trail, and you have to traverse the off-width about 15 feet left and then continue the off-width up to the ledge/rap station.
Would appreciate the beta since it is not drawn in on the guide and can not find info online.
cheers
Ryan Chelstowski
From Colorado Springs, CO
Joined Jan 6, 2008
159 points
Feb 6, 2012
Buenos Dias!
Chelsey870 wrote:
I am looking for some closure beta on Disco Death March in the gunks. Dick Williams guide says "Start 5 feet right of Big Chimney, Diagonal up right to base of obvious off-width crack, and follow crack to ledge at base of chimney". But, recently I was told that it actually starts underneath the big roof facing the traps trail, and you have to traverse the off-width about 15 feet left and then continue the off-width up to the ledge/rap station. Would appreciate the beta since it is not drawn in on the guide and can not find info online. cheers



I know zero about the climb but it looks like at least one person thinks the traverse is part of it.
big gear required...
-sp
From East-Coast
Joined May 25, 2007
80 points
Feb 6, 2012
its very obvious from the trail, You can get by with 2 large green bd's, contrary to the video you do not need to shove your knee into the flake on the traverse, there is a little footy ledges if you are larger than 5'5, the real meat and potatoes comes in making the moves up to the belay. burlap submariner
Joined Sep 6, 2009
360 points
Feb 6, 2012
inner chi
I thought from looking at it that it would take bigger than a #6 which is why we backed out of trying it. But now that I know the higher up you plug the better, I can't wait to get on it
Thanks for the very helpful beta!
Ryan Chelstowski
From Colorado Springs, CO
Joined Jan 6, 2008
159 points
Feb 6, 2012
Buenos Dias!
burlap submariner wrote:
its very obvious from the trail, You can get by with 2 large green bd's, contrary to the video you do not need to shove your knee into the flake on the traverse, there is a little footy ledges if you are larger than 5'5, the real meat and potatoes comes in making the moves up to the belay.



But the shuffling knee-bar looks so cool...
-sp
From East-Coast
Joined May 25, 2007
80 points
Aug 19, 2012
The video is exactly hoe we did it this weekend. The beta is good. I am less than 5 8 and I could not mange it with out getting way up into the horizontal. One knee bar for cam placement. My buddies nailed it. I had to get a little help around the corner for a while and then ended up laybacking the last section. I was promptly scolded for not using proper off-width technique, but oh well!

If you like this kind of climbing, do this!!! It was awesome.
ntableman
Joined Sep 24, 2011
56 points
Aug 20, 2012
...
I know zero about the climb but it looks like at least one person thinks the traverse is part of it. big gear required...
>


the last person i saw in a crack like that doing a knee jam ended up stuck and shat themself...... ;)
EFS
Joined Jul 25, 2012
47 points


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