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Gunks- Disco Death March....
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By Ryan Chelstowski
From Colorado Springs, CO
Feb 5, 2012
inner chi

I am looking for some closure beta on Disco Death March in the gunks. Dick Williams guide says "Start 5 feet right of Big Chimney, Diagonal up right to base of obvious off-width crack, and follow crack to ledge at base of chimney". But, recently I was told that it actually starts underneath the big roof facing the traps trail, and you have to traverse the off-width about 15 feet left and then continue the off-width up to the ledge/rap station.
Would appreciate the beta since it is not drawn in on the guide and can not find info online.
cheers


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By -sp
From East-Coast
Feb 6, 2012
Buenos Dias!

Chelsey870 wrote:
I am looking for some closure beta on Disco Death March in the gunks. Dick Williams guide says "Start 5 feet right of Big Chimney, Diagonal up right to base of obvious off-width crack, and follow crack to ledge at base of chimney". But, recently I was told that it actually starts underneath the big roof facing the traps trail, and you have to traverse the off-width about 15 feet left and then continue the off-width up to the ledge/rap station. Would appreciate the beta since it is not drawn in on the guide and can not find info online. cheers



I know zero about the climb but it looks like at least one person thinks the traverse is part of it.
big gear required...


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By burlap submariner
Feb 6, 2012

its very obvious from the trail, You can get by with 2 large green bd's, contrary to the video you do not need to shove your knee into the flake on the traverse, there is a little footy ledges if you are larger than 5'5, the real meat and potatoes comes in making the moves up to the belay.


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By Ryan Chelstowski
From Colorado Springs, CO
Feb 6, 2012
inner chi

I thought from looking at it that it would take bigger than a #6 which is why we backed out of trying it. But now that I know the higher up you plug the better, I can't wait to get on it
Thanks for the very helpful beta!


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By -sp
From East-Coast
Feb 6, 2012
Buenos Dias!

burlap submariner wrote:
its very obvious from the trail, You can get by with 2 large green bd's, contrary to the video you do not need to shove your knee into the flake on the traverse, there is a little footy ledges if you are larger than 5'5, the real meat and potatoes comes in making the moves up to the belay.



But the shuffling knee-bar looks so cool...


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By ntableman
Aug 19, 2012

The video is exactly hoe we did it this weekend. The beta is good. I am less than 5 8 and I could not mange it with out getting way up into the horizontal. One knee bar for cam placement. My buddies nailed it. I had to get a little help around the corner for a while and then ended up laybacking the last section. I was promptly scolded for not using proper off-width technique, but oh well!

If you like this kind of climbing, do this!!! It was awesome.


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By EFS
Aug 20, 2012
...

I know zero about the climb but it looks like at least one person thinks the traverse is part of it. big gear required...

>


the last person i saw in a crack like that doing a knee jam ended up stuck and shat themself...... ;)


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