Login with Facebook
 ADVANCED
The Precipice
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Balance Queen T 
Bartleby T 
Birch Ade T 
Chicken of the Sea T 
Chlitlin Corner T 
Connecticut Crack T 
Country Corner T 
Crack Of Senility T 
Dynamo Hum T 
Emigrant Crack T 
Fear of Flying T 
Fingers in a Seascape S 
From Russia With Love T 
Gale Face T 
Games Without Frontiers S,TR 
Green Mt. Breakdown T 
Gunklandia T 
Gunklandia Direct Variation T 
High Wire T 
Jaws T 
Juvenile T,S 
London Bridges T 
Madame Dubois Wild Ride T 
Maniacal Depression T 
Michael's Pin T 
Mme. LeBois' Troubled Lunge T 
Old Town T 
Philidelphia Story, The T 
Pipe Dreams T 
Precipice Ledges T 
Ramp Traverse, The T 
Recollections of Pacifica T 
Retlaw T 
Return to Forever T 
Rusticator T 
Scaramouche Arete S 
Sea Gypsy T 
Space Between T 
Standard Route T 
Story of O T 
Sweet Surrender T 
Trotsky T 
Vacation Cracks T 
Wafer Step T 
Wet Lithuanian T 
Unsorted Routes:

Gunklandia 

YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b

   
Type:  Trad, 2 pitches, 100'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b [details]
FA: unknown
Season: Closed sometimes for Peregrine Nesting
Page Views: 2,954
Submitted By: Jonathan Steitzer on Feb 22, 2010

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (22)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [0 people like this page.]
Charlie working the finger cracks.

Description 

Gunklandia is a local classic, with 3 fun pitches and a little bit of spice at the end. It starts a little down hill from old town.

The first two pitches are commonly combined into one and follow an easy corner system and crack to a spacious belay ledge with rap anchors. From here up and to the right takes you to a bomb bay chimney which puts the sting in the tail of this scorpion.

Have fun.

Location 

Right next to old town, a large dead log marks the start.

Follow the finger cracks up to get to a little ledge, then a larger crack leads you up to the belay ledge and the end of the second pitch.

Protection 

Small and medium nuts.


Photos of Gunklandia Slideshow Add Photo
The starting finger cracks
BETA PHOTO: The starting finger cracks
Charlie Racking up for his lead.
Charlie Racking up for his lead.
some people say the start's the crux, but I defini...
some people say the start's the crux, but I defini...

Comments on Gunklandia Add Comment
Show which comments
By GMBurns
Sep 21, 2010
rating: 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c

P3 felt WAY harder than 5.7. Not sure if it was the correct place to go, but we did the crack in the corner, between the 5.9 flake above us to the left and the 10ish crack on the face to the right.
By Costigan
Oct 2, 2010

I climbed this route a few weeks ago as well. I felt that the the moves off the ground were quite trivial, but I got smacked around trying to gain the wide crack off the optional pitch one belay ledge. Pitch two (or three) follows a wonderful tradition of New England sandbagging. Overall Gunklandia is great route that left me more than a little humble.....I hung on 5.7 :)
By Dom
Administrator
From: New Brunswick Canada
Apr 25, 2011

I'm confused. Is the pitch 3 chimney part of this route or is that what they call Gunklandia direct?

Anyways the chimney is harder than 5.7. like GMburns said
By Keyan P
From: Burlington, VT
Aug 26, 2011
rating: 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c

agreed, the short chimney section was awkward and felt more like a 5.9
By Derek Doucet
Oct 19, 2011
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

No, the Chimney is not Gunklandia Direct. It is the last pitch of Gunklandia. Gunklandia direct is a variation on the first pitch, starting about 20' of the standard start.
By Peter Lewis
From: Bridgton, Maine
Oct 30, 2014

Yeah, um, that last pitch chimney---such a little sandbag...if this is 5.7, then the second pitch of Chitlin is 5.8. (Hint: none of this is right.) Expect to be spanked. First pitch (or two, depending on how you do it), is wonderful and true to the grade; the direct start is an awesome two-move wonder.