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Unsorted Routes:

Gunklandia Direct Variation 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI British: HVS 5a

   
Type: Trad, 1 pitch, 100'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9- French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: unknown
Page Views: 1,210
Submitted By: steitz on Feb 22, 2010
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Marat just emerging out from the crazy bomb-bay ch...

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Description 

A great climb that puts a fun twist on the warm up of Gunklandia.

You climb into a bit of an overhanging chimney, then have to get out up and over. There's a crack you can stem out to on your right, but for bonus points don't use it. The crux is definitely negotiating the overhang in the chimney.

Useful Beta-

There's a loose chock stone you can get a good grip on way back in the over hanging chimney, and a solid undercling. These two items should greatly ease the challenge of getting above the chimney.

After the chimney enjoy a beautiful corner up to a solid belay.

You can traverse over to the Return To Forever rappel bolts then rap down to Old Town Ledge, then back down to the deck. Easy quick way out.


Location 

From the top of Gunklandia look a little to your right and you'll see a chimney that then roofs out into a left facing corner. That's your horse.


A great resource for this whole area is Acadia, by Jeff Butterfield.


Protection 

A variety of nut sizes and medium to small cams.



Photos of Gunklandia Direct Variation Slideshow Add Photo
You can see the line, along with the crack you can cheat and stem out to.
BETA PHOTO: You can see the line, along with the crack you can...
getting into the bottom of the climb
getting into the bottom of the climb
Comments on Gunklandia Direct Variation Add Comment
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By Dustin Lagoy
From: Western MA
Jun 10, 2011

From my understanding (but I could be mistaken) this is the actual Gunklandia line. The 5.9 variation is to the first pitch and not here. IMO the short chimney is not as hard as 5.9. Also, using just the crack on the right side of the corner is Emigrant Crack (5.10b).

By Peter Lewis
From: Bridgton, Maine
Sep 12, 2011
rating: 5.9- 5c 17 VI HVS 4c

You're right, Dustin; this is the regular second pitch of Gunklandia (and at 5.7 is quite the nice little sandbag). No, it may not be 5.9, but it's close. The "Direct" variation is the discontinous finger crack about ten feet right of the normal start that goes for 20 feet before joining the regular route. It's barely 5.9 and kind of a two-move wonder.