Gunkish 5.6
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| Type: | Sport, 1 pitch |
| Consensus: | 5.6 [details] |
| FA: | Ned Crossley |
| Submitted By: | kenr on Nov 7, 2012 |
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Description The historic "official" difficulty grade is 5.6
The historic route description was:
"Climb 3’ left of corner, turning the left end of the overhang to ledge, and continue up to another left facing corner capped by 2’ overhang. Pass over this directly to a series of small corners facing left to rap/belay station ...
V1: Go up corner and directly over lip of 1st hang."
Nowadays the upper section has two distinct lines of bolts -- see Comments below.
Actually the only Gunks-like thing here is the occurrence of an overhang. The bottom ten feet of the route are very un-Gunkish.
Location RRT# 20
. (between "Girth Hitch the Tree" and "49")
The historic Start description was:
"At small 20” overhang capping a 2’ left facing corner."
Protection Bolts -- Years ago there were 6 bolts, but I have not checked to see if that count is still accurate - (anyway the upper section now has two distinct lines of bolts.)
By kenr
Nov 7, 2012
| Now seems to me the upper section has two distinct lines of bolts (as of 2012):
one going mostly to the left of the upper overhang, and the other directly over the upper overhang.
I feel that both are interesting, but the right line is much harder. |
By kenr
Nov 7, 2012
| 5.8 is what I'd rate this as a sport route.
- because I felt that the slab/friction moves at the start were about as tough as the hardest moves on "Bolt Line" (5.8) at Rumney.
(If your slab/friction "game" is not up to full power, think about stick-clipping, or at least make sure you get some good spotting).
- because I felt like the direct line over the upper overhang about as tough as the harder moves on "Metamorphosis" (5.8) at Rumney.
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