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Gunkish 

YDS: 5.6 French: 4c Ewbanks: 14 UIAA: V British: S 4b

   
Type: Sport, 1 pitch
Consensus:  YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ British: MVS 4b [details]
FA: Ned Crossley
Page Views: 180
Submitted By: kenr on Nov 7, 2012
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Description 

The historic "official" difficulty grade is 5.6
The historic route description was:
"Climb 3 left of corner, turning the left end of the overhang to ledge, and continue up to another left facing corner capped by 2 overhang. Pass over this directly to a series of small corners facing left to rap/belay station ...
V1: Go up corner and directly over lip of 1st hang."

Nowadays the upper section has two distinct lines of bolts -- see Comments below.

Actually the only Gunks-like thing here is the occurrence of an overhang. The bottom ten feet of the route are very un-Gunkish.


Location 

RRT# 20
. (between "Girth Hitch the Tree" and "49")

The historic Start description was:
"At small 20 overhang capping a 2 left facing corner."


Protection 

Bolts -- Years ago there were 6 bolts, but I have not checked to see if that count is still accurate - (anyway the upper section now has two distinct lines of bolts.)



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By kenr
Nov 7, 2012

Now seems to me the upper section has two distinct lines of bolts (as of 2012):
one going mostly to the left of the upper overhang, and the other directly over the upper overhang.
I feel that both are interesting, but the right line is much harder.

By kenr
Nov 7, 2012

5.8 is what I'd rate this as a sport route.

  • because I felt that the slab/friction moves at the start were about as tough as the hardest moves on "Bolt Line" (5.8) at Rumney.
(If your slab/friction "game" is not up to full power, think about stick-clipping, or at least make sure you get some good spotting).

  • because I felt like the direct line over the upper overhang about as tough as the harder moves on "Metamorphosis" (5.8) at Rumney.