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Gunboat Diplomacy 

YDS: 5.10c/d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 21 British: E3 5b

Type:  Sport, 2 pitches, 160'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10b/c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Scott Ryser, Sean Cobourn
Season: Fall - Spring
Page Views: 3,546
Submitted By: Jeff Mekolites on Mar 27, 2007

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (51)
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Gunboat Diplomacy


First pitch is balancy and climbs up to a bolt, steps left past a bolt and then straight up past several more bolts to a bolted belay. Some parties do the first pitch only. Second pitch continues straight up and slightly right to bolts. Rap route from there.


Up and right of the trail to the Flakeview area. On a narrow grassy ledge. Look for the first bolt up high.


Bolts. Anchors.

Photos of Gunboat Diplomacy Slideshow Add Photo
Alex heading up P2 of GBD
BETA PHOTO: Alex heading up P2 of GBD
Mary showing good form at the route's crux.
Mary showing good form at the route's crux.
BP approaching Will near top.
BP approaching Will near top.
Buddy Price high on G B D.
Buddy Price high on G B D.
A photo of some guys killing it up Gunboat Diploma...
A photo of some guys killing it up Gunboat Diploma...

Comments on Gunboat Diplomacy Add Comment
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By saxfiend
From: Decatur, GA
Mar 10, 2008
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b

Outstanding route! Balancy edging most of the way, but no really desperate sections. Can easily be done in one pitch with double ropes.

Also, there were no missing hangers on this route as of 3/08.
By John Saunders
From: Cornelius, NC
Feb 21, 2011
rating: 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b

Excellent route!! So far, my favorite in fact. Found that a couple small TCUs/C3s are helpful before the first bolt and after that it was a clip up. Found that following this route, I felt the crux to be low on the first pitch. After having led it I found that the crux was definitely high on the 2nd pitch, and it was actually getting to the 2nd to last bolt. It had forced me up and left of the bolt and the balancy traverse back to the bolt was a treat. I found no bolts to be loose on the route though the right hanger on the first pitch belay does spin.
By Sam Stephens
Mar 24, 2011

Wound up out left of the second to last bolt. Skipped it because I was afraid things were going to start breaking off if I stayed too long. Top is excitingly fragile...

Did it in one mega pitch. Rope got realllll heavy up at the top.
By sanz
From: Raleigh, NC
Nov 7, 2011

Great route, similar balancey crimping to Seven Year Itch but minus a few tougher crux moves. A .5 C4 in the perfect mail slot keeps the high first bolt from being an issue. Clip up after that, with a long runout over easy terrain to finish. If you led this, you should try Seven Year Itch!
By nate3265
Oct 1, 2012
rating: 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b

I only climbed the first pitch and it was great. is the second pitch as good/hard?
By mattjohnson
From: Laurens, SC
Feb 21, 2013
rating: 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b

I found the hardest part to be a little over halfway up on the second pitch, right where you're starting to think its going to be smooth sailing to the top. Easily the hardest move on the route, and its a little ways above the previous bolt.
By BJ Cook
From: San Diego, California
Oct 9, 2014
rating: 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b

Classic route with nice little crimpy edges and some sidepulls. Definitely all about the feet on this one. It started raining and we met John and Katie from Asheville, who took us back up here and lent us some cams. We did the 1st pitch only.
By Mike Nevko
From: Currently Charlotte
Dec 22, 2014

Do it as at mega pitch and top belay the follower. 70M or double ropes needed to get down by rapping straight down 7 year itch. You might be able to swing over to the intermediate wrap on Gun Boat With a single 60, we didn't.

Technical crux is definitely up high on the 2nd Pitch, You think you are smooth sailing, but tricky guard the exit. Rope drag is manageable, so do the super pitch.
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