Type: Trad, 40 ft (12 m)
FA: unknown
Page Views: 2,136 total · 17/month
Shared By: Bob Ewing on Nov 5, 2013 · Updates
Admins: Frances Fierst, C S

You & This Route


10 Opinions
Your To-Do List: Add To-Do ·
Your Star Rating:
Rating Rating Rating Rating Rating      Clear Rating
Your Difficulty Rating:
-none- Change
Your Ticks:Add New Tick
-none-
Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.
Warning Access Issue: Private Land-gate closed and locked by nightfall. DetailsDrop down

Description Suggest change

Gunboat Diplomacy begins on a ramp and continues up the angled wall. It follows the crack right up the inside of the "open book" that defines the wall. The crux is at the top, where the crack will want to suck you in. The trick is moving left onto the face at the end.

The Blade itself (arete) is much harder than 5.4 probably 5.11 or 5.12. It starts out pretty sharp but turns into a real sloper near the top and overhangs about 5 degrees or so.

Location Suggest change

Once you finish the climb, build an anchor at the top and belay your partner up. Then walk off.

Protection Suggest change

The route is well protected with a standard trad rack. Like all climbs at Sugarloaf, there's no bolts.

Photos

0 Comments