Gun Shy  5.12c

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Type:  Sport, 1 pitch Consensus:  5.12c [details] FA:  Stuart Ruckman, Gordy Douglas, 1993 Submitted By:  Richard M. Wright on Nov 14, 2001 You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (11) Your todo list: Your stars: Your rating: -none- [change] Your ticklist: [add new tick]

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Description 

Just below the large dihedral on the right side of The Wasteland is a cluster of routes that converge just below the start of the dihedral. This is the Espresso, Capuccino, Java Creek group. Immediately left of this group is a narrow overlap or roof about seven feet off the ground. Running through the overlap and just left of Espresso is Gun Shy, an excellent line that fires through the blue/grey limestone found on The Beast. The beauty of Gun Shy is that the powerful crux comes right off the deck, in getting over the overlap/roof. Difficulty eases back to very sustained 5.11+ climbing on pockets and rounded open hand pads. This rock greased up very soon after the line was established, and has not improved with use. However, Gun Shy is one of better lines on the wall and is a lot easier on the hands than routes of a similar grade on the left side of the wall. This is an excellent project (for some of us) with good pro that gets a bit more spacey near the top. The only detraction in my mind is the grease factor.

Protection 

Ten draws and a 50 meter rope.