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Gun Rack 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a

   
Type:  Sport, 2 pitches
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: Pauline Hsieh, Ron Cotman, Gordon Briody (2001)
Page Views: 2,563
Submitted By: andyf on Feb 18, 2007

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (52)
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such a fun route!

Seasonal Raptor Closure: Noontime and Midnight Rock MORE INFO >>>

Description 

Gun Rack has a brilliant double roof sequence (especially for the grade), with mostly pedestrian climbing before and after. There's an optional second pitch of easy slabbing (5.6 or .7, crux at top). By skipping (or back cleaning) some of the first pitch bolts, it's reasonable to climb the entire route as one long pitch (two raps with a single rope).

Location 

Currently, last route to the left after reaching crag. Look for the double roof.

Protection 

Draws. 6 bolts plus anchor (first pitch); 13 draws should be enough for combining pitches.


Photos of Gun Rack Slideshow Add Photo
Gun Rack: Starting the route.  Photo by Ron Lavign...
Gun Rack: Starting the route. Photo by Ron Lavign...
Gun Rack:  Heading into the double roofs.
Gun Rack: Heading into the double roofs.
Looking up at the double roof (between the branche...
Looking up at the double roof (between the branche...
Clipping the roof bolt. Pitch 1
Clipping the roof bolt. Pitch 1

Comments on Gun Rack Add Comment
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By Perin Blanchard
Administrator
From: Orem, UT
Jul 8, 2007

I combined pitches 1 and 2 without skipping or backcleaning; the rope drag was stiff for the last little bit, but doable. However, it was just about impossible to hear my second under the roof from the top of pitch 2.
By Rafe
May 5, 2009
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

Super fun.
By DuncanKL
Jul 28, 2010

Great climb, but not good on hot days.
By Denno
From: Leavenworth, WA
Jul 19, 2013
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

One of my favorite sport climbs in Leavenworth! Pumpy roof crux, but an awesome feeling sending it, and fun to lap.
By Lan Dogan
From: Seattle, WA
May 18, 2015
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

Pitch 1 is excellent. Fun and juggy. Crux is moving past the double roof. Trusting excellent jugs let you clip the bolt just above to give you protection for moving up and through.

I don't recommend pitch 2. I couldn't figure out how to move around the roof and up to the anchors with out feeling super exposed. Afterwards a friend who'd climbed it before said there was a good under cling to the right but I did not find while on the route. I retreated and a friend rappelling the next route over recovered my bail draw.
By Daniel Bookless
From: Portland, OR
Aug 22, 2015

worth climbing twice in row
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