Login with Facebook
 ADVANCED
Thunder Buttress
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Backlash S 
Concertina S 
Gun Club S 
Let's Make A Deal S 
Loud Noise S 
Momma's Squeeze Box T 
Mushrooms T 
Right Son of Thunder T 
Screamer Crack T 
Super Crack T 
Transcendence S 

Gun Club 

YDS: 5.12c French: 7b+ Ewbanks: 27 UIAA: IX- ZA: 27 British: E6 6b

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 80'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12c French: 7b+ Ewbanks: 27 UIAA: IX- ZA: 27 British: E6 6b [details]
FA: Brooke Sandahl, April 1989
Page Views: 1,163
Submitted By: Joseph DeGaetano on Mar 20, 2013

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (1)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [1 person likes this page.]
Dan Osman soloing Gun Club (5.12c), NRG. Photo: Ja...

Description 

This long face climb, just left of the big corner known as Super Crack, is a good introduction to NRG technical face climbing. Don't let the grade scare you off because none of the individual moves are any harder than 12a. But, they do add up and there are multiple cruxy sections. Bring your fancy footwork and strong fingers to reach the anchors on this one.

On a historical side note, Dan Osman soloed this route in 1991. The story goes that Dan worked the crux on a short leash never really dialing in the sequence perfectly. The next day, with friends and video cameras in tow, he set out to solo the climb. Maybe the sun drenched wall, maybe his nerves, or perhaps the reality and severity of such a serious solo got the best of him, and he began to verbally doubt himself, telling his buddies that he wasn't sure he wanted to go through with it. The crazy thing is that he was doing this while on the climb just below the crux, where a fall could be fatal. His friends not wanting to see Dan die, told him to not worry about it and come down. Dan kept hemming and hawing up there until he cut loose and hiked it to the top.

From what I've read, it sounds like one hell of an insane solo by one crazy, albeit, BOLD man. Rope up, and climb what Dan Osman was crazy enough to do without a safety line.

Location 

Thunder Buttress, just left of Super Crack.

Protection 

Bolted with good options for cams to keep the runouts a bit more tame.


Comments on Gun Club Add Comment
Show which comments
By Darren in Vegas
From: Las Vegas, NV
Mar 29, 2013

I think the FA was Brooke Sandahl. Not sure of the year,
By Mark Paulson
Apr 17, 2013

I was on this yesterday, and we were unsure of the original line. You can leave Supercrack at the fourth bolt, which involves a very thin, very hard crux using a pinch that was obviously epoxied back on, or go higher and cross over at the fifth bolt, bypassing the crux entirely. I emailed Mike "Ironclad Beta" Williams and he assured me that the line goes up through the fourth bolt. Not to contradict the original poster of this route info, but this crux is way harder than any of the other climbing, and felt like a sandbag even at 12c (the original grade was 12b...ridiculous). As Mike said, if you didn't traverse in at the 4th bolt, you didn't climb Gun Club. Just warning anyone who finally got Pockets of Resistance, reads the route info and wants to jump on; the crux is not 12a climbing. The rest, yes.
By ----
Apr 18, 2013

The crux is about a V5/6 slab boulder problem, but may feel impossible if you're unfamiliar with the technique of running your feet up on smears while your fingers are supporting nearly 100% of your weight on small edges. I know this sounds like bad technique, but it's the easiest way to do the sequence.

After the boulder problem you're looking at a long 12a to the chains. The bolts seem a bit more runout than your typical NRG route. Hard for the grade for sure.
By skinny legs and all
From: Elizabethtown, Pennsylvania
Apr 21, 2013

Brooke first ascended The Gun Club in April 1989. Dan Osman soloed it in 1991. The description of Dan's solo is spot on. I heard almost the same story. The day prior to his send he was not looking solid. I think he tied into a short section of dynamic rope, soloed up to the crux, clipped into the nearest bolt, attempted the crux and whipped multiple times, without a belayer. In my mind, this was one of his ballsiest short solos.
By ShockSLL
From: Charlotte, NC
Apr 22, 2013

I had heard a similar but slightly different story regarding the Dan solo. I had heard he was trying to send it using a rope and was getting upset/frustrated that he couldn't make the move. Then he had an epiphany...the rope was holding him back. He then decided to solo it and sent it.