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Gumfighter 

YDS: 5.11+ French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII British: E4 6a

   
Type: Trad, 1 pitch, 80'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11+ French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII British: E4 6a [details]
FA: Maurice Reed, Doug Reed, & Vernon Scarborough
Page Views: 1,099
Submitted By: Julian Smith on Nov 26, 2007
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You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (14)
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Mantle up to the bolt... mid 90's.

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Description 

I think the Gumfighter is one of the prettiest lines around. It was certainly my favorite at Ship Rock, and Ship Rock remains one of my all-time favorite crags; so what more can I say. Don’t be put off by the rating because a top rope can easily be set up by climbing its neighbor; Borrowed Time. It is also very easy to find because of where it is located; immediately to the right of Borrowed Time.
Crank up through a roof, passing a fixed pin, to where a bolt is encountered on a slab. It can be a little sketchy clipping the fixed-pin on lead, but suss out the beta…;-) From a stance at the base of the slab, either work your way straight up (thin!) or to the right and then up. Pass another fixed pin on your way to easier ground and the top. Enjoy.


Protection 

My memory can’t recall the exact gear beta for the route, but I don’t think there was a great deal of it to be had beyond the few fixed pieces… maybe a larger TCU or so up high.



Photos of Gumfighter Slideshow Add Photo
Resting after clipping the fixed pin… mid 90’s.
Resting after clipping the fixed pin… mid 90’s.
Dealin' with the crux... mid 90's.
Dealin' with the crux... mid 90's.
Going for the roof... mid 90's.
Going for the roof... mid 90's.
Headin' for the top... mid 90's.
Headin' for the top... mid 90's.
Comments on Gumfighter Add Comment
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By John Rudolph
Aug 18, 2009

Very nice route, very thin through the middle section. Recommended TR. I did a nice dyno move after about 10 feet or so to the left to gain the jug before the slab.

By s f
From: GA/CO
Nov 30, 2009

A 000 C3 down low gets you to the first pin. Dyno? Every move can be done statically. A little finesse and some crimping will see you past the crux. Once established up high this route is safe, but a fall in the crux will mean some air time. Do bring that .75 for the end. Oh, and one of the old pins does not fit many contemporary biners.

By Ryan Williams
Administrator
From: London (sort of)
Jun 7, 2010

Yea the first hard move, which is most certainly NOT a dyno, is protected by any of the smallest cams (black alien, grey tcu, 000 c3) and then the bolt is pretty easy to clip. The hardest moves are protected by the bolt, and then a pin and a .75 to protect the end.