A sunny,exposed SW facing crag with very good quality rock. Good choice for a first time lead. Most routes are well bolted.
Park at the pullout just after MP 18. Walk up the road to the smaller gully which is just before the point where the rock meets the road. A steep, somewhat awkward ascent brings you to the base of the crag. Traverse left and through a gap in the rocks to find the routes. Approach time 5-10 mins.
Goes past big flake/chickenhead things (watch your rope) and up the wall right of The Gumby Sanction. Upper wall looks like 5.9 until you get there. Easier than it appears. Shares chains with Gumby Sanction....[more]Browse More Classics in AZ
The rock here is bullet hard, and the holds are different from most Lemmon crags, i.e. sharply incut. Climbing these routes in stiff-soled hiking boots will add a level of interest, esp. on the upper section of GumButtress.
Yes. Or at least as far as I know. The Coronado National Forest website says all of Barnum Rock, and the Gumby Wall is part of Barnum Rock. Maybe someone should add the "access issues" note to this area.