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Green Thumb
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Bazooka 
Diagonal Finger Crack 
East Face/Green Thumb 
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Green Crack 
Gullwing 
L.A.S.T. aka Unknown Flakes 
Stainless Steele 'Rete 
Variation 
Zimbra 

Gullwing 

YDS: 5.10 French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII- British: E2 5b R

   
Type:  Trad, 2 pitches, 80'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10 French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII- British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Skip Guerin, 1981
Season: south-facing
Page Views: 97
Submitted By: Tony B on Sep 10, 2006
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  • Some crags in this area are closed 1 February to 31 July: MORE INFO >>>
  • Climbing areas reopened after flood MORE INFO >>>

  • Description 

    This is the dirty-looking, shallow, right-facing corner just right of Zimbra on the SW face of the Green Thumb.

    Find Zimbra, the vertical, bolted route 30 meters down and East of the Green Thumb summit, perhaps just 3 meters right of the start of that is Gullwing.

    Gullwing climbs to a ledge with a small tree, in from the right (EZ) or up the first 5 meters of Zimbra (5.10, 2 bolts) to reach a small tree on a small ledge just right of a small right-facing corner. Reach the tree by your preferred method and look up into the corner. It's heavily lichened and dirty, which would be more of a problem if you were planning on climbing the corner itself rather than the face holds around it. As it were, climb up and around this corner (5.10 crux getting into it) on bad gear for 4 meters to reach a good flake with great gear (cams to 3") and then up and left on this bomber flake to a ledge. On the ledge, continue up and slightly right into a deeper left-facing corner (5.10-) and place some gear before continuing for the top. Alternatively, one can clip the anchors for Zimbra from the first ledge and stop there, descending as for that route.

    To descend from the top of the second corner, scramble a few meters NW to a low-angle corner, down the corner and slab, and down to the Zimbra anchors, perhaps 8 meters in all.


    Location 

    Just right of the bolted route Zimbra, in a very shallow and lichenous right-facing corner/flake.


    Protection 

    Looks pretty bad- but could improve with a wire brush. Maybe more opportunity would arise for gear if it was cleaner. If you don't mind a the big swing potential, this can be TR'd from Zimbra.



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