Gull Whackers 5.8
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| Type: | Trad, 1 pitch, 95 feet |
| Consensus: | 5.8- [details] |
| FA: | George Bracksieck & Cathy Mallow, 1980? Stettner? Ellingwood? Ormes? |
| Season: | when you've done the rest |
| Submitted By: | Leo Paik on Nov 17, 2006 |
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Armin...no gulls.
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Description Well, you could call this Older Dihedral...but it isn't in Rossiter's nor either of the more recent Rolofson's guides, so what the 'eck? In the middle of the lower Animal World cliff is a large right-facing dihedral capped with a chimney. That's the line. Temporarily named for its easy acceptance of those British hexes...don't be offended if it is your route.
Head up the obvious corner with some slippery feet to start. Of course, you will not only be prepared for gulls but, here in the Front Range, also pigeons and bats. About 40 feet up, you can choose to either continue up the chimney (less appealing) or angle right along a crack (best bit) to the 8th bolt of Jaycenne's Dance aka Animation. Continue to its top. Rap.
Note, there are still some loose flakes on the route. We didn't want to clean it with dogs and ladies below.
Location This lies between Joint Venture and Jaycenne's Dance aka Animation. It starts up and...at least for this writeup...connects with Jaycenne's Dance aka Animation at its 8th bolt.
Protection Single set of cams to #3.5 Camalot with a few larger, gull whackers, 4 QDs.
| Comments on Gull Whackers |
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By percious
From: Bear Creek, CO
Apr 18, 2008
rating: 5.6
| The crack was full of bird crap. Bushes at the top of the climb are annoying. Lots of loose blocks. Fun to use my hexcentrics, otherwise a bore. |
By George Bracksieck
Jan 3, 2012
| I agree that this climb is of poor quality. Before bolts (June, 19, 1980, to be exact), I led Cathy Mallow up this dihedral/gully. (Does this put me in the pantheon containing the likes of the Stettners, Ellingwood, or Ormes?) I didn't report our ascent because someone could have climbed it before we did and I didn't report anything in those days. Instead, I kept a journal and occasionally took photos. |
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