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Gulag Archipelago 

YDS: 5.11+ French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII British: E4 6a

   
Type: Sport, 4 pitches, 380'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11b/c French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- British: E4 6a [details]
FA: Jeff Frizzel, Jim Ablao
Page Views: 1,125
Submitted By: Jim Ablao on Aug 10, 2009
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Description 

1st pitch crux comes low(11a). 2nd pitch (11c/d) enjoyable moves on nice rock stays with you to the ledge. 3rd pitch waterstreak has 10d move at bulge. The 4th(9) climbs big holds to the top. Scramble into left gully to rap from pitch 4 or descend misery Ridge.
Over-all a fun climb on good rock with great position.


Location 

NE face of Red Wall. uphill left of Helter Skelter, downhill left of Super Slab
Descent: Continue up and use misery Ridge trail-OR-From top, Scramble down gully left to sneak the 3rd pitch anchor to begin rappels.
1. Rap to base of water streak anchor(pitch 2)
2. Rap to ground using 2 ROPES.


Protection 

Bolts
See: Smithrock.com for downloadable topo



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By Jeff Siefman
From: Portland Oregon
Aug 13, 2009

Super fun route! Perhaps some of the most fun to be had! Watch the choss on pitch 4!

By ferrells
From: Minneapolis, MN
Nov 8, 2009
rating: 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- E4 6a

Amazing route. 11b, 11c, 11b, .9. Well bolted, great rock on the first three pitches, beautiful views, and fun moves. One of my favorite days at Smith so far.

By ferrells
From: Minneapolis, MN
Mar 7, 2010
rating: 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- E4 6a

Is this the correct name for the route? I thought it was Archipelago, and would ignore the spelling above, but I think you are the guy that did the FA.

By Jim Ablao
Jul 14, 2010

Yes Ferells, thanks for the spell-check. Glad you enjoyed the route. Cheers

By Max Tepfer
From: Bend, OR
Apr 13, 2011

Great route! Second pitch is probably one of the top three pitches at the grade on the tuff... (IMO) super good rock quality. Third and fourth are easily linked and probably should be. Additionally, they're not nearly as high-quality as the first two and only worth doing if you're set on getting your merit badge for doing the whole thing. Also, I've rapped this with one 70m rope. You have to do a short, mellow down-climb to the ground in the amphitheater right of Super Slab, but it's not too bad.

By MorganH
Apr 22, 2013
rating: 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- E3 5c PG13

I thought this was one of the best routes I've been on at Smith! Just after the crux bulge on the 3rd pitch, there are some loose flakes. I would second the recommendation to link the 3rd and 4th pitches, but there would be some ledge fall potential from the crumbly stuff on the last pitch if you whipped. I thought the 3rd pitch, although easier, was absolutely brilliant and not to be missed.