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Suicide Rock
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Guinness S 

Guinness 

YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 80'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.6 French: 4c Ewbanks: 14 UIAA: V ZA: 12 British: S 4b [details]
FA: unknown
Season: dry
Page Views: 731
Submitted By: Brian in SLC on Sep 2, 2009

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BETA PHOTO: Start of Guinness

Description 

Steep up and initially be careful with any loose rock getting to and past the first bolt. Stepping to the right in a couple locations (and back left near the top) keeps the grade easier. Once past the first bolt or two, the route is lower angle and more slabby.

Rappel/lower back to the staging area, or, a top rope of the unknown bolted route to the left can be accomplished by lowering the climber directly back to the base of that route, rather than attempting to walk straight over to it from the bottom of this route (no trail, very loose and steep).

Take care with loose rock both on the initial part of the route, and, at the belay area and don't stand below on the trail if a party is already occupying the route. There's no room up there at the belay anyhow (for more than 2 people).

This route would be a very poor candidate for siege top roping with a large group (just too much loose rock and too little area to belay/stand).

A fun route to warm up on prior to heading to the main Tick Rock crag.

Location 

Located on the right side of Suicide Rock, at the right staging area at the end of the right-hand fork in the steep, loose trail. Start of route is in the semi alcove formed by a large monolithic boulder on the right, and, a blocky arete/face on the left. Note lead several bolts from the ground but the anchor can't be seen from the belay area.

Protection 

6 lead bolts lead to a two bolt anchor with rappel rings.


Photos of Guinness Slideshow Add Photo
Anchor atop Guinness.  Kinda wish folks would use fat stainless bolts...
Anchor atop Guinness. Kinda wish folks would use ...
good views from mid route
good views from mid route

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