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The Wasteland
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Guilt Parade 

YDS: 5.12c French: 7b+ Ewbanks: 27 UIAA: IX- British: E6 6b

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12c French: 7b+ Ewbanks: 27 UIAA: IX- British: E6 6b [details]
FA: Kurt Smith, 1993
Page Views: 800
Submitted By: Richard M. Wright on Nov 22, 2001
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This is what happens after blowing the crux. To ma...

Description 

Guilt Parade takes the fourth line of bolts on the left side of the Wasteland cave. While often described as slabby, this description is a major sandbag. The line starts with a very powerful slap that, for me, uses a lot of ape index. Passing the first bolt is close to 5.12 by itself. A series of technical face moves on good edges sends you up into something of a corner system where the gear used to get very spacey. A retro bolt was added in 1994 to protect one very cruxy move in this region. The route stays powerful and pumpy right up to the finishing bulge. The stone on Guilt Parade has always been sharp, particularly in the start, so plan on a rough job for the hands. The cumulative pump factor and mental game (lots of spacey pro higher up) add up to an excellent line (project for some of us), that sees a lot less traffic than it deserves. A couple of funky spots drop off a star.


Protection 

Bring a dozen draws and a 60 meter rope.



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By Richard M. Wright
From: Lakewood, CO
Nov 23, 2001

On the mark comment. If we are thinking of the same section of rock, I thought that what might reef here was never really huge, just toaster-oven sized blocks. In a different setting, a lot this stuff would have seen some heavy crowbar action. Frankly, many of the more "slabby" routes in the Wasteland should be viewed with same caution that Matt has indicated.

By Adam Holmes
Aug 16, 2004

I went up this route the other day and concur that's there's a terrifying hollow sound you hear reefing on that section at 2/3 height. Unsure whether the block(s) will actually come off but I sure won't sunbathe underneath this route from now on.

By Neal Carroll
Oct 11, 2004
rating: 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- E6 6b

This route is a total pile that I would only recommend to my worst enemy. While pretty to look at...and fun to climb if you can get past the fear factor...I will not be surprised when the whole thing falls down. I just hope there is no one on it when it does...go do Durt instead!

By Andrew Bisharat
Jun 27, 2007

I agree with the above. I would not recommend anyone climb this route. There is a significant portion of wall that is waiting to come down. Even though it has been "crowbarred"--a few tons of rock isn't going to move until its ready to.

Also, the first bolt is halfway pulled out of the wall, though it's hard to tell that from below. I'd replace the bolt, but, like I said, I think this route is dangerous ...

ab

By Monomaniac
Administrator
From: Morrison, CO
Jul 16, 2009

Just to jump on the bandwagon, this route is quite spooky. A block I was standing on cut loose yesterday, nearly killing my belayer. The flake section is downright terrifying, and the bolts are all rusty & loose.

Other than that, it's a great climb!

By Jeremy H
Jul 17, 2009

I am putting up new routes in the canyon and I have my pry bar out there a lot. What do you guys think should I pry off the scary flake? and replace the bad bolt?

By Monomaniac
Administrator
From: Morrison, CO
Jul 18, 2009

First of all, be careful! Second, I don't really think it's worth the effort/risk. There are plenty of better routes in the canyon. I would just recommend to others to climb elsewhere.

I could see an argument that the route is an attractive nuissance in its current state. Not sure what to do about that, other than to publicize the hazard. I would be against chopping the bolts, but that would be the only way to keep fools like myself from stumbling onto the route. It gets 3 stars in the 2002 Wolverine Guide, which is the guide I have...which is how I found myself trembling up the flake.

Does the 2008 guide mention the loose rock?

If you do re-bolt it, I would vote for moving the bolts a bit to the left at the bottom so the rope doesn't run over the flake. That way if the flake cut loose, and didn't whack your belayer, the leader might have a chance of surviving.

By Disco
Oct 18, 2012

I climbed on G.P. for the first time 10/17/12 and saw the new bolts and no loose blocks. I know it's Rifle, but 12c seemed stout for the climbing. Has anyone done this route since the blocks were removed? Also, great climbing. Thanks for the new bolts!