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Otter Cliffs
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Guillotine 

YDS: 5.10a/b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 19 British: E2 5b

   
Type:  Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 40'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10a/b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 19 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: ?
Page Views: 2,424
Submitted By: Dan G0D5H411 on Aug 23, 2010

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BETA PHOTO: Approaching the upper crux.

Description 

Follow the wide crack using faceholds and intermittent thin cracks to the upper dihedral crux. After a funky move or two to get the lieback, move slightly left into the roof and finish with a fantastic overhanging traverse to the right.

Location 

When facing the cliff, walk rightwards from the sea stack to a large right facing dihedral. On the left wall of the dihedral, find a wide (~12 in.) crack that leads up into a chalked up roof. There is usually a pool of water right below the base of the climb (although you can approach and belay from the left in relative dryness.)

Protection 

Standard light rack (with an emphasis on smaller gear) or TR setup.


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By Michael Z.
Aug 16, 2011
rating: 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b

This was one of the better routes we did on our trip to Otter right up there with A Dare By the Sea!
By JayMorse
From: Hooksett, New Hampshire
Oct 2, 2013

There was a huge puddle at the base of this route when we did it. Scout it out - you may want to hang your rope so you don't go all the way to the base when you rap in to avoid getting your shoes soaked.

It's an amazing climb, second only to A Dare by the Sea