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Lower Falls Amphitheatre
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Guiding Light 

YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ British: E1 5a

   
Type:  Trad
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10b/c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Rick Cashner, Don Reid, 1978.
Page Views: 1,580
Submitted By: Blitzo on Oct 17, 2006

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"Guiding Light".
Photo by Blitzo.

Description 

Shortly after reaching the amphitheatre, one will notice a nice 80' corner. This is "Guiding Light". Climb the smooth crack in the corner to a two bolt anchor.
Rappel 80'.


Protection 

Pro to 2".



Photos of Guiding Light Slideshow Add Photo
Michael Approaching the crux of Guiding Light
Michael Approaching the crux of Guiding Light
Comments on Guiding Light Add Comment
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By karcbr
Jun 2, 2008

The continuation to the route Guiding Lights first two pitches, is called "Heavens Door" . This route continues up for three more pitches. When Walt Shipley and myself did this routes finish, we thought the hardest sections were probably around 11+ with an R rating. The climbing goes out and up the huge hanging flake on the 4th pitch - aptly named Heavens Door, cause if the thing rips, well....The old days hanging and climbing with Walt are sorely missed. Walt had a way of motivating me by just being around him. Climbing with him always felt like anything we attempted was possible. Yosemite will never be the same for me without him. Keith Reynolds

By tallmark515
From: San Francisco
Oct 12, 2009
rating: 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII E2 5b

Great stems and liebacks in corner system with lots of good rests. Pretty stiff for .10a. Felt more like .10b/c at the crux, especially because their is a fixed cam in a crucial finger crack.

Good fun though.

By seldoon
From: California
Dec 31, 2011

Feels harder than 10a. It's a long layback reach at the crux.

By Rob Dillon
Oct 1, 2012

.10a is a bit of a sandbag, esp. compared to the one next door.

By aaron hope
From: Walnut Creek, CA
Dec 3, 2013
rating: 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII E2 5b

I agree with 10b/c. Sustained with decent rests and good pro, but small. Definite crux at the top of the thin crack. I used all my C3s on this one. Really fun climb!