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Turret Dome
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Guide's Route 

YDS: 5.6 French: 4c Ewbanks: 14 UIAA: V ZA: 12 British: S 4b

   
Type:  Trad, 3 pitches
Consensus:  YDS: 5.6 French: 4c Ewbanks: 14 UIAA: V ZA: 12 British: S 4b [details]
FA: unknown
Page Views: 3,796
Submitted By: Barrett Cooper on Aug 4, 2001

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Dave G. on an upper pitch of the Guide's Route.

Description 

From the base of Turret Dome, 0.25 miles west of the picnic area, head along the river and then scramble up to the base of this climb about another 0.25 miles. It starts in a slight ravine with a large fallen tree on the rocks southwest face well west of Schooldaze's giant arch formation. On its right are four unnamed sport routes (5.8ish) that are fun if you are waiting for the route to clear.

Pitch 1: Climbs a 5.6 hand and finger crack past several rock horns up and over a slight lip protected by a single pin. From there, it follows the multi-cracked corner up to a good belay ledge directly under the climbs overhang.

Pitch 2: Climbs up from the belay stance to under the overhang and then steps right onto bathtubs. The next belay is a short climb up the tubs to a three pin anchor in the rock over the overhang on the left side of the tubs.

Pitch 3: Climb right from the belay stance over the tubs to an almost flat boudler. Climb over the corner to the right of the rock which is protected by a single pin. From there, it is a zigzag path up to the summit over 5.5-5.6 rock and flakes. Rope drag at the top is a lot less if you sling every piece you place.

Downclimb to the left off the summit down 5.4 rock. When you get down the rock to pine forest go down and right over loose ground to get to the picnic area.

Protection 

A standard rack with 2-3 extra 24" slings for the horns on the first pitch and to relieve rope drag on the last pitch. This route also eats up large hexes.


Photos of Guide's Route Slideshow Add Photo
As seen from the base; just past the gully with the dead tree. It's easier to go further left and scramble up.
BETA PHOTO: As seen from the base; just past the gul...
Midway up the 2nd pitch, just right of the large roof.
Midway up the 2nd pitch, just right of the large r...
Margaret leading right after the P1 crux and the fixed ring piton.  When I lead it, I could reach with my 35" arms to the right and place a cam.  Don't know what the protectable crack to the right goes at.
Margaret leading right after the P1 crux and the f...
The optional 5.8 steep crack finish to Guide's Route. (Photo by Phil Ashton.)
The optional 5.8 steep crack finish to Guide's Rou...

Comments on Guide's Route Add Comment
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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Jul 8, 2013
By Sean O'Dell
Mar 22, 2002

I've seen the top pitch actually broken up into 2 short pitches to alleviate rope drag. In this method, pitch 3 goes slightly right across the slab/tubs above the belay stance of pitch 2 and belays at the base of the large summit boulders. Pitch 4 then picks a line up the 5.5-5.6 chimney country through the boulders to the summit. Each of these pitches winds up only being 40-50 feet, but not having your rope zig-zagging around the boulders is worth it.
By shad O'Neel
Apr 13, 2003

For the beginner leader, the insecure slab on the second pitch is probably the cruxiest part. Seems to make more sense to pass the three pin anchor and belay higher up to avoid rope drag. The climbing up higher is wandery but mellow, just be careful if you encounter the large pink hollow flake, it seems very hollow. The obvious belay at the top of p.1 takes #2-3 Camalots, but you will have no use for these on p.2.

Walk off near a lone pine tree on your left, some wander below a steep block and follow slabs to a saddle, others go further left and walk down in the woods.
By Sirius
From: Oakland, CA
Dec 17, 2003

If you're swinging leads, make sure you get the first one, as it's the most quality climbing the route has to offer. More than crack climbing, this is a pitch with face holds that follows a crack. The rest, as recounted above, is all wandering and ropedrag after the crescent flake and bathtubs. One star.
By Larry Shaw
Apr 29, 2004
rating: 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b

Climbed to the top in 2 pitches with 60s. If you simul climb 15ft, you can make the 3 piton anchor on the first pitch.
By Chris Swope
From: Greeley, co
Jul 26, 2007

Did this route today. Lots of fun. After the 3 pin anchor, we continued straight up into a roof and crack system. It was an awesome varation and protected very nicely (there was a fixed cam in the crack). Does anyone know was this varation goes at or if it was part of another route? My guess would be around 5.8-9.
By Joshua Balke
From: Colorado Springs
Sep 6, 2008

I think the direct "3rd" pitch is about 5.8 and much like the staircase adds a star to the route and is a great finish being much more direct with no rope drag or route finding to deal with. By the way a 70m rope will take you straight to the 3pin belay anchor with only a little rope drag is you sling your pro well. Turns the climb into about 1.5 pitches.
By Rick Blair
From: Denver
Jul 6, 2010
rating: 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b

I was following another pair of climber who combined P1 & P2. Don't do it with a 60m! They made it to the 3 piton belay just fine, I had to have my second climb up a little to reach. For P3, I went straight up the 5.8 roof crack to avoid rope drag. It was awesome! Fun moves. Easy/good pro, go for it. Stuck cam is still there.
By Margaret T
From: Denver, CO
Jul 9, 2010
rating: 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b

Going too far right after the 3rd pitch belay resulted in the need to break the 3rd pitch into two short pitches to eliminate rope drag. Also going too far right meant there were some sketchy 5.8 moves on a very exposed face with no feet - definitely think the straight up 5.8 roof is a better option. Great climb, however and no traffic even on 4th of July weekend - spectacular views from the top. Walkoff only has one small section of 5.4 downclimb. Left a piece of webbing and a quicklink slung around a boulder for those who want to rap that section.
By Dave G
From: Colorado Springs, CO
Sep 26, 2010
rating: 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b

Fun climb. We did 3 pitches and keep the 3rd pitch to 5.6 without problems. We downclimbed to the left with just a little of what seemed like 5.2 to me. I was comfortable w/o a rope.
By Pablo1960
From: Colorado Springs, CO
Sep 14, 2012

Thanks to Paul and V from Sante Fe for the help in lowering me and my partner on 9/9/12 from the 5.8 section of the 3rd pitch. We verified that a 60m rope will not quite make it all the way to the ground from the 3 pin anchor, but it is enough reach the pillar to the right at the start of the climb, where it is easy to throw a couple long slings over the horn for a quick anchor, then down climb/lower the last 15 feet. Also thanks to Jason and Lawrence from the Springs for short roping/hand holding/rope rigging to get us safely down the approach slabs. After a trip to the ER, my partner's heart "converted" to a normal rhythm, with more tests to follow with a cardiologist. And I agree the straight up 5.8 crack version of the 3rd pitch is fun to climb up...and it turns out it is also quite fun to down climb if needed!
By Barry Collins
Jul 8, 2013

Climbed this route in 2 pitches with a 60 meter cord. Pitch 1 to the 3 pin anchor, then up and R, then cut left to the summit. I slung everything long, rope drag was not an issue. Fixed cam is still in the 5.8 crack if you choose that line, I didn't.