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T-Wall East
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Guardian of the Gate 

YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 85'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Rob Robinson, Tom Campbell - 1985
Page Views: 1,208
Submitted By: Rob Dillon on Dec 31, 2006

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Description 

This is the arete to the right of 'In Pursuit...'

Most people angle up and right from the vicinity of the corner, clipping the first bolt of The Litto and slinging the tree en route to a stance on the arete. Style points are subtracted for chimneying against the tree, though it's undoubtedly tempting. In the manner of Crash Position and the Margin, protection is sparse through an easy middle section until some brass can be dinked into the bottom of a scoop near the arete. Once established on the corner, protection improves for a few exposed moves up to where things back off near the top. Look for a pair of those stainless rings to the right if the traditional top-out-and-hunt-for-a-tree doesn't suit you.

Location 

An adventurous step up from Stepping Stone on the T-Wall Arete Tour.

Protection 

It's mostly small. Surprised?

Nothing over 1.5" is needed.


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By Stone Brew
From: Chattanooga, TN
Jan 3, 2009

Leave the brass at home,none needed anywhere on the route.