With two distinct cruxes and good climbing between them, Guardian Angel is a fun challenge. The route gets its name from an incident in which a climber took a ground fall from the top and escaped serious injury. NOTE: the first ascent was likely done on gear and later retrobolted, so feel free to break out your rack and skip the bolts if you're a trad leader.
Starting just left of a left-facing corner, climb the face on easy ground to a small roof. Pull the roof (crux) on good holds and continue up the face. A thin crimpy section near the finish provides a second technical crux.
Starts almost directly across from where the approach trail hits the cliffline, about 15' right of The Up Game.
Seven bolts, bolted anchors.
|Comments on Guardian Angel
|By Kit Taylor|
From: Atlanta, GA
Oct 26, 2009
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ E1 5a
Good route, had more trouble finding the 'good holds' on the roof crux (more like a large bulge) than a 5.9 should be, so I give it a 5.10a. Very well protected in this area though so great for burgeoning leaders.
From: Decatur, GA
Dec 31, 2011
This is one of my favorite leads at Lower Leda -- quality climbing from top to bottom!
|By Jeremy Hand|
Aug 23, 2012
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI E1 5a
Sweet line with reachy moves through a roof and a challenging finish.