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Up Game, The 

Guardian Angel 

5.9+

   
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Type: Sport, 1 pitch, 80 feet
Consensus: 5.10a [details]
FA: unknown
Submitted By: saxfiend on Jun 23, 2008

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (12)
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Description 

With two distinct cruxes and good climbing between them, Guardian Angel is a fun challenge. The route gets its name from an incident in which a climber took a ground fall from the top and escaped serious injury. NOTE: the first ascent was likely done on gear and later retrobolted, so feel free to break out your rack and skip the bolts if you're a trad leader.

Starting just left of a left-facing corner, climb the face on easy ground to a small roof. Pull the roof (crux) on good holds and continue up the face. A thin crimpy section near the finish provides a second technical crux.


Location 

Starts almost directly across from where the approach trail hits the cliffline, about 15' right of The Up Game.


Protection 

Seven bolts, bolted anchors.



Comments on Guardian Angel Add Comment
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By Kit Taylor
From: Atlanta, GA
Oct 26, 2009
rating: 5.10a

Good route, had more trouble finding the 'good holds' on the roof crux (more like a large bulge) than a 5.9 should be, so I give it a 5.10a. Very well protected in this area though so great for burgeoning leaders.

By saxfiend
Administrator
From: Decatur, GA
Dec 31, 2011

This is one of my favorite leads at Lower Leda -- quality climbing from top to bottom!

By Jeremy Hand
Aug 23, 2012
rating: 5.9+

Sweet line with reachy moves through a roof and a challenging finish.