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Routes in The Big Roof
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Bronco Billy's T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Double Time at Sue's Place T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b |
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Guanos Dios T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Welcome to China T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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| Type: | Trad, 25 ft (8 m) |
| FA: | Phil & Chuck ?? |
| Page Views: | 1,086 total · 5/month |
| Shared By: | phil broscovak on Jun 1, 2007 |
| Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
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Description
Guanos Dios is the harder of the two approaches for Double Time. Boulder up the same slippery slab and set a directional at the base of the thin slightly overhanging crack in an obtuse corner. Work up the feet and pro with a liberal use of stemming liebacking and thin jamming. Once the pro is worked as high as you can and you are stemmed as high as possible with hands crammed into the worst of the jams you will realize it's time for the crux. A very brutishly delicate transition onto the lower angled slab above. Calm yourself as you still have too finish up that slab to the belay.
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