Guanica 5.8+
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| Type: | Sport, 2 pitches, 140 feet |
| Consensus: | 5.8 [details] |
| FA: | P1 Kristina Bergdahl, Nick Martel. 12/2012, P2 Nick Martel, Jackson Bain, 3/2013 |
| New Route: | Yes |
| Submitted By: | NickMartel on Dec 16, 2011 |
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Kristina cleaning the bottom of the route and surp...
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Description Pitch 1: Stem up chimney through a constriction, then the chimney re-widens and then constricts again before a final 20' of water polished slab.
Pitch 2: Continue up 2 tiers of polished slab to ledges then up another chimney section to roof crux, then final 10' of slab to P2 anchors.
Pitch 3: Unprotected (except for the anchors) 20' 4th class up and right on easy but polished slabs to 2 bolt anchors on the the top of the cliff, and walk off to the left. You can also rap in from the top via these anchors.
You can also link the whole thing in 1 long pitch but I don't know if you would be able lower to the anchors atop pitch 1. Best to belay from the top. Both belays are comfortable.
It can also probably be climbed using only the slightly overhanging right wall at around 5.10/11??? and was bolted in such a way as to allow this. 2ed pitch was also bolted so as to allow climbing it without stemming.
Bats can/will fly out of 3 different areas of the route if disturbed which can be quite surprising, but they are harmless and cute!
Location Chimney/cave left of "Limbomainac", "Resume Builder", and "Unemployment Line".
Protection Pitch 1: 7 camouflaged bolts (red, black and white) and chain anchors with hooks. All but the 3ed bolt are on the climbers right/right side of chimney. They are WELL camouflaged and several people have missed bolts so spot as many as you can from the ground. 5 are below the 2ed constriction and 2 are above it on the white water polished slab. It is never more than 10' from one bolt to the next.
Pitch 2: 7 more bolts (unpainted) to 2 bolt anchor with chains.
Looking down from the third bolt, at the first con...
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By NickMartel
From: Tucson, Arizona
Dec 16, 2011
| We debated whether or not to place a bolt at the crux 2ed constriction. We decided to put it in for peace of mind (even if it is strenuous to clip it) and as such the next bolt is a little bit higher than it would have otherwise been. However, the climbing gets easier above the constriction so if you elect to skip the crux clip the ensuing mild runout is not that bad. |
By Matt Juaire
Dec 16, 2011
rating: 5.8 PG13
| Heading there tomorrow, can't wait to give this one a try! I will report back with comments when I return. |
By Matt Juaire
Dec 17, 2011
rating: 5.8 PG13
| Really good new route! A few very minor run-outs, but nothing too bad and they are in easier parts of the climb. Can't wait to get back out on it another day! |
By NickMartel
From: Tucson, Arizona
Dec 22, 2011
| We used a nut tool and pecker to remove the last of the vegetation and 95% of the remaining dirt, but if you find some pull it down/brush it off. Belayer should still wear a helmet until this sees a bit more traffic. We also paved the mud floor of the cave with rocks and then padded with bear grass, NICE! |
By mherholz
Dec 24, 2011
| Nice solid moderate chimney route as long as it's daylight haha. Fun climb and looking forward for second pitch. |
By Myk
From: tucson, az
Dec 26, 2011
rating: 5.8
| Fun climb. Well worth doing. There are 2 bolts above the lip. They are really well camouflaged and kinda hard to find. Climbed past both bolts before I saw them. Nice job on the belay area. I bet you guys could do an awesome job fixing the belay areas around the corner...... Anchors have mussy hooks added to chains. |
By NickMartel
From: Tucson, Arizona
Dec 31, 2011
| Cleaned even more dirt out. One more brushing/cleaning session and it should be spotless. 2 golf ball sized pieces of rock came off too so belayer should still wear a helmet. Changed the hangers to the correct camo colors. |
By Tomily
Nov 23, 2012
| Climbed this last Sunday. Super fun route. Nice bolts. We didn't notice anything loose. Miss Gulchesque |
By Nick Henscheid
Feb 22, 2013
rating: 5.8
| Fun route! First did it using both sides (.8) then using the right side only (10a). |
By NickMartel
From: Tucson, Arizona
Mar 12, 2013
| As of 3-2013 this now has a 60' 7 bolt 2ed pitch that goes at an exposed 5.8+ (9-). The 2ed pitch has the same character as the 1st and is recommended. Thanks to Jackson for spending a day hanging out on this getting hit by small falling rocks, and getting P2 done before I left Tucson! BRING HELMETS!!! Enjoy! |
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