Guan Ho 5.11a/b
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| Type: | Trad, 1 pitch, 20 feet |
| Consensus: | 5.11a/b [details] |
| FA: | Mick Follari, Pete Takeda, Lenore Sparks, David Hume, Rob Duncan, Benjamin Rush, and Zac Robinson |
| New Route: | Yes |
| Submitted By: | P Takeda on Jun 1, 2010 |
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Description This route is a crusty thin crack starting on the block behind EHH. As the name suggests, Guan Ho is marred by a patch of bird droppings. However, it should clean up nicely with a few ascents.
Location Plumb Line Crag upper tier central. Inside Rowdy's Corral. This route is located several feet to the (climber's) left of Edward Humid Hands.
Protection Small stopper and small to mid-sized cams.
By Mick Follari
From: Boulder
Jun 1, 2010
| Pete, this thing was at LEAST 30 ft... remember that traverse right at the top. |
By USBRIT
Jun 2, 2010
| Wow. 30', that's getting close to being a really "big wall". I guess that now means most folk will have to bivouac on this one. Cheers.... |
By dignam
Jun 2, 2010
| I bet I could climb it in less than a day. |
By Rob Duncan
From: Salt Lake City
Jun 2, 2010
| A sleeper classic next to Lenore's really nice Edward Humidhands. It should clean up nicely after a few more ascents! |
By Zac Robinson
From: Salt Lake City, UT
Jun 3, 2010
| I might add a painter's mask to the gear beta. Just to keep a handle on the Guan.
Should clean up with a few ascents. |
By lenore sparks
From: Heidelberg, Germany
Jun 3, 2010
| This may just be a 10 foot Negative 2 star route. Jus' sayin'.... OR, it may be 100 feet of pure awesome. I guess we will never know unless someone took some sweet pics!
BTW---- the traverse added by DBH and LLS is 5.8 and you can walk off to the West. It is actually really good climbing. Actually. |
By DavidHume
Jun 3, 2010
| This is a five star classic! Don't believe anyone named Sparks. |
By Benji R.
Jun 4, 2010
| About as 4 stars as you can get in 30ft of climbing. The Guan keeps it thought provoking |
By lenore sparks
From: Heidelberg, Germany
Jun 4, 2010
| I appreciate that Guan Ho went from Juan Jo to Guanholio to Guan Ho, and now it is simply "The Guan" what a classic! |
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