This climb is best found by locating Strawberry Jam (#3 in attached photo), then looking for a flake that begins 25' to the left on the ground, but sweeps up and right for 60+ feet to a bolt anchor just 10 feet left of Strawberry Jam at mid-face.
Work up and into the undercling/lieback, then follow for 35 feet into the crux, where the flake dog-legs to near vertical. You might grunt, you might not. I found the climb to be a nice combination of footwork and brain-power for 90% of the moves, with a few raw power hand-jam pulls that were secure, but hard. The hand and footholds were so frictiony that little grip or effort was required most of the way.
Do this and the nearby Strawberry Jam for a nice morning out of the sun.
Stoppers and cams from small TCU - #4 Camalot. Take doubles in the 2"-2.5" range.
This climb could be TR'd from the anchors at mid-face above it, after rapping down from the anchors up on top of the rock. Strawberry Jam is the most obvious way to the anchors up top.
May 3, 2005
No grunting involved. Solid jams with great feet up to where the crack gets wide. Layback from there.
From: Littleton, CO
Sep 9, 2012
rating: 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
I think I grunted more on Strawberry Jam.
This route seemed to have two cruxes: 1. pulling around a corner about a quarter of the way up; 2. the steep liebacking with wide open hands near the top.
A fun route all around!