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Grundel City Boy 

Hueco: V9 Font: 7C

   
Type:  Boulder
Consensus:  Hueco: V9 Font: 7C [details]
FA: Tim Walburn
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 2,334
Submitted By: Anonymous Coward on Oct 19, 2001
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Justin Jaeger, setting his heel just right for the...
Climbing areas reopened after flood MORE INFO >>>

Description 

A slappy problem on the BBC boulder under The Turning Point, just to the left of Original Grapple. Start sitting in a nook using 2 crimps then hug your way past the opposing sidepull system eliminating the detached blocks to the right and left.

Stellar, but somewhat contrived.


Protection 

A pad in the nook, and one over a rock to the left will do ya dandy.



Photos of Grundel City Boy Slideshow Add Photo
Justin Jaeger with his heel still hooking, is looking good for the finishing moves recently made harder by a broken hold, by Chip Phillips.
Justin Jaeger with his heel still hooking, is look...
Comments on Grundel City Boy Add Comment
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By jj
Feb 26, 2003

Just an update: the best flake on the climb was pulled off sometime in January (?), making the line much more difficult for those who blast straight up. It may (or may not) add a single grade for those who use the heel-hook beta. Now, instead of popping to the missing undercling flake, reach further to the hidden jugs/left edge of the boulder.

--j.jaeger

By Matt Battaglia
May 5, 2010
rating: V9 7C

It seems that 2 grades should be posted for this problem: with crack (V9) and without crack (V10/11). With crack, one gets a good foot for the otherwise powerful opening sit sequence and then when the slopers turn foul you bust a hard move left back to safety in the crack. Talking to others who have done/tried this way the consensus seems to be V9ish (with crack). The straight up way, no crack, eliminates the foot and jug at the opening sit sequence and then forces a big move off horrible pinches and crimps to gain the lip and finish. Consensus on this one seems more like V10/11. Anyone feel much different about the grades?
--Battaglia