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Grumpy Old Men 

YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b

   
Type:  Sport, 110'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: T Goss, D. Biniaz
Page Views: 807
Submitted By: darrell hodges on Apr 12, 2010

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Grumpy Old Men

Description 

P1: Ascend what looks like a wide crack with Stegosauraus backplates sticking out of it. The spines are a very unique feature- the likes of which I have never seen. They looked delicate but we didn't break any off. They give you a series of jugs and good feet until they peter out near the top.Most of the climb is pretty easy with a reachy 5.9 crux near the top. Fun fun fun! (110ft)

P2: Ascend a series of softer, more fragile crimps and edges through a small roof, paw around for the solid stuff, then continue to fire the face towards more varnished and secure ground. Cool plates of hard sandstone litter the upper headwall. Persevere and be rewarded. Sketchy fun fun! (90ft)

The climb goes for two pitches. Good if run as a single or mulit-pitch.

Location 

Middle of the wall.
As you approach you will see a light colored, slopey looking and pretty featureless wall and you might wonder how there could be a 5.9 there. You don't see the flakes sticking out until you get closer. Look up for the first bolt. It's about 20-25 feet off the ground.

Protection 

P1: 10 bolts and rap anchors.
P2: 9 bolts and chains.

A 70 meter rope is recommended, especially if climbing only pitch one.
A 60 meter rope is fine if doing both pitches. Walk off or rap Misfit Profits to the lookers right (South).


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By Stan Pitcher
From: SLC, UT
Dec 12, 2011

I am a bit grumpy about this route! The first bolt is quite high and its unnerving climbing on the strange flakes - this was some of the hardest climbing on the pitch and it seemed silly not to have a lower bolt. There maybe protection possible in the crack but I didn't have any with me. Then on the 2nd pitch I could not see the third bolt anywhere above the bulge. After climbing up (and down) a few times to look I bagged it - seemed it would be a bad place to take a long fall.

You can rap from the top of pitch 1 with a 60m.
By Patrick Stark
From: St. George, Utah
May 5, 2013
rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b

Climbing to the first bolt is fine. Big holds. First pitch has a strange bulging section near the top that will make you think a bit. One would not want to fall sending the roof on the second pitch. The bolt over the roof is out of sight and a fall here could lead to a nice smack on the ramp below. The holds over the roof are solid and the bolt is up there; of course by the time you get to it you don't really need it anymore. Ha!
By darrell hodges
Mar 22, 2014

A bolt has been added to the start of the first pitch and another one up higher. So, pitch one now has 12 bolts.
By Marius vanderMerwe
From: Saint George, UT
Mar 23, 2014

I hope the bolts were added with the blessing of the first ascensionists. If so, then fine. If not, then please don't modify the routes. There are plenty of other routes with closely spaced bolts to go and climb. This is climbing ethics 101.
By darrell hodges
Mar 24, 2014

The new bolt at the bottom is actually a bit too low to be really effective. If you blow it nearing what is now the second bolt, you'll still deck.