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entering the crux of the route
|Access is limited in the spring and summer due to peregrine falcon nesting; so there are some closures. Checking with the Adirondack Climbers Coalition or the NYDEC can provide the closure status.|
Peregrine closures and approach trail issues MORE INFO >>>
This is a good route to do while waiting for some of the classics in the area to free up. It combines balancy moves with some so-so gear.
Begin in the flaired open book. Climb straight up, clip a bolt, then head out left a hair (short but thoughtful crux), gaining the broken slot that takes some good gear (the rock is a little hollow, though). Clear the small bulge, pulling onto the slab above. Continue up the easy slab above to the shared chain anchors for the adjacent two routes.
At the height of the hiking trail that taken you to the far left end of the cliff, is a flaired open book/groove. This is the start.
Small gear, plus a #3.5 and a #2 Camalot for the broken slot.
By M Hosmer
From: Potsdam, NY
Aug 22, 2013
Although a 3.5 could be used I would not call it necessary for those who do not have one. I get by just fine with a #2 and smaller finger pieces (.4 and .5 sized)