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Group Therapy 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI British: HVS 5a

   
Type: Trad, 1 pitch, 90'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: Dennis Luther, Fred Schaefer July 20, 2002
Page Views: 284
Submitted By: Chris Duca on Feb 27, 2010
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entering the crux of the route

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  • Access is limited in the spring and summer due to peregrine falcon nesting; so there are some closures. Checking with the Adirondack Climbers Coalition or the NYDEC can provide the closure status.
  • Seasonal Peregrine Falcon Closures MORE INFO >>>

  • Description 

    This is a good route to do while waiting for some of the classics in the area to free up. It combines balancy moves with some so-so gear.

    Begin in the flaired open book. Climb straight up, clip a bolt, then head out left a hair (short but thoughtful crux), gaining the broken slot that takes some good gear (the rock is a little hollow, though). Clear the small bulge, pulling onto the slab above. Continue up the easy slab above to the shared chain anchors for the adjacent two routes.


    Location 

    At the height of the hiking trail that taken you to the far left end of the cliff, is a flaired open book/groove. This is the start.


    Protection 

    Small gear, plus a #3.5 and a #2 Camalot for the broken slot.



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    By M Hosmer
    From: Potsdam, NY
    Aug 22, 2013

    Although a 3.5 could be used I would not call it necessary for those who do not have one. I get by just fine with a #2 and smaller finger pieces (.4 and .5 sized)