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Routes in Sandstone Buttress
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5 Year Plan, Baby D’Angles, Gravity in Chains & Illusions of Lander T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a R |
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Ancient Graffiti T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Arapiles Revisited S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b PG13 |
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Dang Nab It S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Group Grope T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Gunky T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Gunky Left Shield Variation T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c |
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honey comb haulbags T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Maverick, The T,TR 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a V4 6B R |
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New Sensations S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b |
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No Name Crack T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Sentinal Chimney T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Standard Route T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Standard Start T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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| Type: | Trad, 200 ft (61 m), 2 pitches, Grade II |
| FA: | Randy Cerf, Scott Fisher, Mike Allison 1978 |
| Page Views: | 1,325 total · 9/month |
| Shared By: | Matt Hartman on Apr 5, 2012 |
| Admins: | Mike Snyder, Taylor Spiegelberg, Jake Dickerson |
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Description
Route to the right Honeycomb, left of Sentinel Chimney. A classic trad testpiece from the late 1970's. Once a bold route, not pretty tame from retro bolts on all pitches. Gets and R rating in Lander Rock 2nd edition. Very well protected with a light rack and bolts.
p1- Climb steep wall past retrobolts to finger crack to hands to an anchor with drop-ins. 100' 5.9. Good pitch on its own. Once very bold....
p2- Steep corner (hands) to bolt above roof with really odd mantel-back flop-stem move. Wild. Clip bolt before committing to move. Soft rock to finger- hand section, then traverse left (look for bolt above final traverse (10a) to belay, or link with p3. 70 ft.
p3- If you used long runner to prevent rope drag, this pitch can be climbed with p2. Some face moves past 3 bolts to rap anchor. Once a bold lead with one pin over the ledge, now a bolt ladder. Maybe 10c, more like 10b. Rap route. A little sandy in a few spots, but really cool movement and exposure for the length. Even with the retrobolts, this takes trad skills but is pretty darn safe.
p1- Climb steep wall past retrobolts to finger crack to hands to an anchor with drop-ins. 100' 5.9. Good pitch on its own. Once very bold....
p2- Steep corner (hands) to bolt above roof with really odd mantel-back flop-stem move. Wild. Clip bolt before committing to move. Soft rock to finger- hand section, then traverse left (look for bolt above final traverse (10a) to belay, or link with p3. 70 ft.
p3- If you used long runner to prevent rope drag, this pitch can be climbed with p2. Some face moves past 3 bolts to rap anchor. Once a bold lead with one pin over the ledge, now a bolt ladder. Maybe 10c, more like 10b. Rap route. A little sandy in a few spots, but really cool movement and exposure for the length. Even with the retrobolts, this takes trad skills but is pretty darn safe.
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